Today was my first time at Good Co. Bar’s North Vancouver location, and I was surprised how it was unlike all the others in Vancouver.
Whereas the three in Vancouver feel more like late night party spots, this one felt like an apres ski cabin. This is done with its proximity to nearby snow and sport mountains, the space’s vaulted chalet ceilings; and the decor that included snowboarding, skiing, and biking accessories spray painted in grey.
You seat yourself, so we helped ourselves to one of their comfortable and spacious booth.
They have a new menu that launched in March. It was meant to be a homage to classic comfort dishes, prepared with modern British Columbia flavours. This applied to all four of their locations (Granville, Kitsilano, Main Street & Northwoods), except that the Northwoods one has the addition of dinner entrees as well.
They have added new lighter lunch and share plate options, plus local drafts to zero-alcohol drink options that we would focus predominantly on during today’s meal.
We started with a couple of their cocktails. I was intrigued by a Salted Caramel Espresso Martini with Grey Goose vodka, Galliano espresso, their house cold brew, caramel, egg white, and kosher salt. However, I couldn’t get past the lattermost ingredient. There was more salt than the caramel syrup holding it on to the rim. The coarse grains and large chunks all around the lip of the glass was overwhelming. It was hard to get past, and I found myself whipping the rim clean. Even with that the drink itself was on the saltier side, otherwise this was just a creamy latte, nothing out of the ordinary.
My guest on the other hand really enjoyed her Chai & Stormy, claiming that it didn’t taste like alcohol and it went down too easy, making it an ideal day drink. This was Captain Morgan’s spiced rum, house made chai syrup, lime, ginger beer, and Angostura bitters.
As for food, we shared a few appetizers. The lightly battered Crispy Cauliflower florets were dress in a curry ranch, then topped with pumpkin seeds and cilantro. These were new. They could have been crispier, but were more heavy with a thorough coating of a bold mustardy flavour, fragranced with dill.
Not new, but a good tell of any bar menu is their Chicken Wings. Available in a variety of dressings and dips we went with their dry rub lemon pepper, and blue cheese and my favourite dip. Naturally, these were the dry side, which meant the dip came in handy for both moisture and extra punch.
Also new is the Calamari, smaller chopped pieces of squid tossed in their house made lemon caper aioli then topped with red onion, parsley, and a lemon wedge for brightening zest. I was not a fan of its thicker, starchier, and bready coating. It completely masked the taste and chew of the squid, which I enjoy.
For our mains we tried one of their new bowls, their team spoke highly of their Shoyu Marinated Tuna Poke. You would not expect to get poke from a bar, but considering that there was no other poke option around, and if you are looking for leaner lunch option, this one does do the trick. Sushi rice, carrot, cucumber, mango salsa, avocado, edamame beans, tuna, avocado mayo, and crispy nori. I appreciated the variety of toppings in each bowl and how much there was in proportion to the rice. This created eating interest and was as light as expected.
We also tried one of their dinner entrees. The Chicken and Ribs Combo was a two for one, allowing you a taste of both their Cajun-Spiced Double Breasted Chicken and Rack of Ribs entrees.
The latter was blackened chicken breast topped with creole butter, and served with a side of fries. The only thing missing from the full plate was seasonal vegetables and smashed baby potatoes in garlic thyme butter. I found the chicken overcooked and tough, and that there was not enough butter to soften some of this. I did like its bold and zesty rub and crispy edges, and thought some mashed potato would have made this a more balanced bite.
Instead, I preferred the half rack of bbq ribs with house made cornbread, slaw, and green onions. The meat was juicy and easily came off the bone, smothered in their sweet and tangy bbq sauce. I thought the sides an excellent pairing and would have liked the full rack next time.
In closing the venue was lovely, the space inviting, and the food above average for any pub offering. And based on the steady traffic and larger table seatings, a welcomed addition to North Vancouver.
Good Co. Northwoods
2100 Dollarton Hwy, North Vancouver, BC V7H 0B5
(604) 770-4980
goodcobars.com
