I have been to and have written about Locanda dell’Orso a handful of times, and don’t need an excuse to do it again.
Today I was visiting as a guest of Crissa of @gottahaveeats, as one of this year’s judges for Vancouver Foodster’s annual Pizza Challenge.
Seeing as we have both visited prior to today, on top of the pizza she had to judge, we went out of our way to order and try dishes we both haven’t before.
We started with their house-made focaccia with brown butter and honey. This is always made fresh on the day and served warm and toasty. When rationed it serves great as a side to help swipe plates clean, picking up all and any leftover bits and sauces from our dishes below.
The Polpette are beef and pork meatballs drenched in a pomodoro sauce, and topped with pecorino. I appreciated how these were leaner meat balls, not just balled up meat, but meaty and crumbly balls. I just could have used more punch and herbs in the gentle tomato sauce.
The pizza she was here to try was the Carbo-Nera, a regular and popular one on their menu. Fior di latte, mushrooms, provolone cheese, crispy guanciale, egg volks pecorino crema, and fresh Italian black truffle. The bread was the best part with its doughy air pockets. The pizza and toppings were equally soft and chewy like the cheese that topped it. It was almost like it all melted together. This ate and tasted of one tone, where each bite consistent.
The Agnolotti Butter & Truffle was stuffed pasta filled with ricotta, sitting in a butter and sage sauce, topped with Pecorino and fresh Italian black truffle. I found it on the heavier and richer side with the dense cheese and thick pasta shell. And then there was the musky and funky layers of parmesan on to the overwhelm. The plate was in need of an acid, like the Lambrusco wine I was sipping on. On a similar vein the truffle too had a boldness to it, its umami flavour was just as decadent, making what little sage there was the only fresh-giving element. I wanted and needed more of it, or at least more wine.
And for dessert our judge loved their Panna cotta, unknowingly finishing the whole serving herself. It was a great flavour to end on and so easy to wrap your lips around and let dissolve in your mouth. Its texture was like that of a cream spread and not as gelatinous as I know panna cotta to be. The basil oil was the standout, it was a unique way to temper the sweet syrup in berry sauce. Whereas the excess raspberry chunks is what gave the dessert its fruity flavour.
In short, another great meal and I won’t hesitate to return to try more of what I haven’t yet.
Locanda dell’Orso
350 W Pender St, Vancouver, BC V6B 1T1
604-336-3151
locandadellorso.com
