Today we were at Hestia Kitchen + Bar in Richmond, to check out their latest new menu launch.
The space is as unexpected as its cuisine. Located in an outdoor plaza, the recessed room opened up like a cave with vaulted ceilings and all black walls. There was plenty of space in between each table, to further and encourage the rowdy atmosphere. I found it like a night lounge, cumbersomely partnered with elevated Italian meets Japanese cuisine. One didn’t lend itself to the other, and I thought each could have done better on its own as a concept. In truth the loud music and chatter took away from the refined plates, even as decadently constructed each was with the likes of truffle and bone marrow.
The large mirrored egg on each table top was an interesting add on. This was equal parts fascinating and finicky as a utensil caddy. You have to remove the cover and pull out all the utensils you need, each standing erect. This then became an eyesore on the table, holding real estate space.
We started with a couple of their new drinks. Lovely enough, but not crafted to pair with the food either.
The Tea Infused Gin Sour had the slight bitterness of tea, tempered with sweet honey, and ending with the caramelized sugars of an egg yolk foam.
The Sake Sour gave a similar impression with its egg white foam. And the Yuzu Beer was bottled and imported in. Neither of which are anything I have not had else were.
As for food we stared with the Wagyu Carpaccio with anchovy butter, confit garlic, grana padano, and made even more decadent with a beef fat crumb. Fried crispy this added a nice crunch to each smooth and melty morsel.
The Arugula Cherry Tomato Salad with Burrata was a nice side to the above. Refreshing vegetables paired with the fruity sweetness of dates and balsamic glaze, the crunch of toasted walnut, and the salt of a firm feta cheese. The Burrata was not needed and more like a bonus with its milky cream finish.
The restaurant prides themselves on sourcing Fresh Manila Clams for this dish. They dressed them with herbs, garlic, chilli, and white wine. Served with focaccia on the side to dip into the broth with.
The Fried Chicken was a little tough, but tasty with its garlic hot honey glaze. Balanced by the house made sake pickles on the side.
The restaurant was also proud of the 21-day dry aged Duck Crown with tartare sauce, revamped for this new menu. Delicious roasted duck with a great meaty bite, served as is, it felt incomplete and in need of a side or some fillers to round out the dish.
I liked the classic simplicity of the Crab + Prawn Linguini with Dungeness crab meat and prawns, and duck yolk in the linguini sauce. Creamy, rich, and satisfying. If I could only have one dish of all that we tried, it would be this with the side of duck.
The 10oz PEl New York strip was another classic plate done like a steakhouse with mashed potato, grilled broccolini, and triple pepper cream. Already filling as is, now more decadent with a side of bone marrow for the new menu. It was a handsome addition to the plate, but not necessary. With no bread or crostinis to enjoy with the marrow I used it as a sauce, adding an extra level of gristle to the steak’s already well seasoned and slightly fatty crust.
For those looking for a more causal plate they also have a Grilled Burger on menu. This is a 6oz house ground beef patty with swiss cheese, truffle aioli, and Sauerkraut, in between a buttery soft brioche bun. They grind the beef in house to be able to property serve the patty as medium. Yet another classic with a side of fries for familiarity.
Overall this was a nice menu and unexpected for Richmond. However not something I would travel out to Richmond for, or lean towards when I am in Richmond. This would probably be a different story if I was living in Richmond. Not quite sure where this fit in. Although given their busy dining room and all the larger tables being sat, they have found their niche as a destination to celebrate parties at.
Hestia Kitchen + Bar
4351 Number 3 Rd #160, Richmond, BC V6X 3A7
(604) 370-9199
hestiakitchenlab.ca
