Today we were at Sula to try their new Spice Route Tasting Menu. This is a rotating prix fixe that changes seasonally. It invites guests on a tour of India across 7 bites. Each one representative of a different region in India, as indicated on the map provided on said laminated menu.
I find it a clever way to get better acquainted with Indian cuisine, as it showcases that it is not just butter chicken and chicken masala.
This is only available at the Davie location of Sula, which focused more on modern approaches to the cuisine, with decor to match.
The Spice Route Tasting Menu is $48 per person with the need for a minimum of two guests and to have the full table participating. There is also the ability to add on wine pairings for $30. 5 glasses of wine at 3OZ each, each served in the restaurant’s whimsical off-balance tumblers that spin at its centre axis.
We started from the mountain region with this staple: Coconut and Kafir Lime Thukpa from Sikkim. A Himalayan broth that is comforting with coconut, kaffir lime, and gentle spices. It is a warm, fragrant, and soothing start, basically a coconut curry and lemongrass soup combined.
The Muradabadi Dal Chaat is slow-cooked moong dal brightened with chutneys and layered with crisp textures. This originates from Uttar Pradesh. Described as a humble street classic, reimagined. I found the chip very hard, and heavy when loaded with all the lentils. It did have nice flavour that was tangy and bright with beautiful colours as an appetizer.
This was paired with Tinhorn Creek Gewurtztraminer, which wasn’t that sweet, adding acid and interest to the bite above, while on the same vein.
Course number three was Butter Bhuna Guchhi from Jammu & Kashmir. This features Kashmiri morel mushrooms simmered in a buttery bhuna masala, stuffed into soft warm mini kulchas. It reminded me of a cross between a dumpling and pancake. I liked the dough, but did find the filling over powering it.
The wine pairing here was Sula Vineyards Viognier. Despite the winery’s name there is no relation to this restaurant. I did not find the wine a good fit. It was too light and didn’t help to temper the earthier notes in the dish.
In between courses we had this lovely Strawberry Sorbet topped with brown sugar as a palate cleanser.
This proceeded the Golden Roots & Coastal Waters dish from Kerala, located in Southern India where they are rich in seafood. Charred coastal fish over Jeerakasala rice, finished with a silky squash purée and curry leaf. The fish was nicely prepared with a red and soft centre that well contrasted the crispy grilled fish skin. I didn’t necessarily need or want the sauce, as I found it weighted the fish down and drowned the once firm rice. I wish the latter came separately to best enjoyed with the fish.
Here our wine switched to red with 11th Hour Cellar’s Pinot Noir. I found it just as heavy as the slightly sweet and heavy on cream purée, that weighed the fish down. I would have liked something white instead, one with high acidity coupled with citrus notes to better counter balance the dish.
Our last savoury course came from Hyderabad. This was Nawabi Murg with fried Raw Banana. It is a rich saffron chicken curry paired with a crisp fried raw banana and flaky warqi paratha. The curry is poured over, at the table, ceremoniously for a show. The sauce reminded me of a salty and spiced up butter chicken, just without the tomato. Therefore it had me longing for naan as the ideal base. It was good with the slightly dry chicken, but over powered any sweetness from the banana.
Here, the smokiness of the Gheringer Merlot complimented the plate, both bold in their own rights and on equal footing.
Dessert was my favourite course. A pretty Coconut Pineapple Panna Cotta from Tamil Nadua. This was a tropical and creamy panna cotta topped with caramelized pineapple. It served as a light, bright, and refreshing end, punctuated with tartness from the freeze dried raspberry toppings.
And our last wine pairing was the Jacobs Creek Moscato Rose. I found it too sweet for the dessert, and best sipped on after enjoying the dessert as is.
The meal ended on Butter Tea, which is exactly as it sounds. Strong tea churned with butter and milk. Calories aside, this was a nice warming end and a great way to wind down dinner conversation with. This originated from the high-altitude ritual of Ladakh. It reminded me of having hot milk before bed.
In conclusion, this was a creative menu and a fun way to learn more about Indian culture and cuisine.
Sula Indian Restaurant, Davie Street
1708 Davie St, Vancouver, BC V6G 2K7
(778) 653-5433
sulaindianrestaurant.com
