Tonight we were at Pan-Asian themed bar, Good Thief for a one night only dinner with Top Chef Canada Season 10 Runner-up Dez Lo x Good Thief. A Fenjiu inspired multi course tasting menu with a feature Baijiu cocktail from their bar team. At $98 per person, plus tax and gratuity, this was well worth it.
The featured cocktail was the Hidden Red with Fen Chiew – The Red One – Baijiu Paranubes, Lillet Blanc, kumquat, citrus, and egg white. It was creamy and smooth with the double shake, and brightening with the tart fruit. This was both a great texture and palate refresher to help punctuate all the stronger flavours to follow.
Other featured beverages included a Flight of Fenjiu Bailiu for sipping on.
Our meal started with a trio of amuse bouche described as “The Good Thief biggest hits in small bites”. The pickles on red rice toast was unexpectedly briney, and had me reaching for my drink. Similarly the tartar on rice crisp, encouraged drinking with its spicy and tangy characteristic. And the coconut cream was a lovely and light foam over the oyster in shell. It reminded me of curry broth, but a little too much and too salty that it drowned out the mollusk.
Our second course was a Uni Toast-fried brioche with salmon caviar and salted egg yolk. It had a wondrous fishy ocean flavour, where the umami of the uni shines. The ragged edges of the toast contrasted the creaminess of the uni. This was yet another wonderful bite to follow with a sip of cocktail.
Course three was one I wish I could have again. Fenju Drunken Chicken Salad with Loong Kong free-range chicken, goji berries, cucumbers, peppers, cherry tomatoes, and a pine nut vinaigrette. The chicken was incredibly tender and juicy, the fresh vegetable a refreshing and crisp base for the savoury meat. Brought together with the self pour over dressing, this was fragrant and exciting to help warm up the appetite. This was my favourite dish of the night.
Our fourth course was Prosperity Lamb Dumplings. Heavy and rich dumplings stuffed with Spring onions, Chinese leeks, and fresh coriander. A round of four sitting in a Vietnamese style coconut, cumin, and ginger curry sauce. I loved the crispy dumpling skirt and the satay coconut and peanut sauce they all sat in. However I found the filling too bold and the sauce combative as a consequence. This would have been nicer with a more simple chicken or pork filling, instead of the gamey-ness of lamb meat.
I would have also liked Hen of the Woods Tempura before the dumplings, as I found this less flavourful, even with the pronounced truffle vinaigrette and 5-spice, salt & pepper seasoning. A crispy coating covering juicy pieces of earthy mushroom, with its meatier texture. With this I would have liked a truffled cream sauce instead, for some levity.
The fried noodle basket was a showstopper and the centre piece of the entire meal. Crispy Fried Egg Noodles with Atlantic Lobster, Abalone, BC pink scallops, and baby bok choy. The noodle held their amazing crunch throughout the meal and well after as leftovers. And there were plenty of juicy seafood morsels to ration with it all. This was a stunning dish and one that really spoke to the caliber of our chef duo in the kitchen.
The last savory course was a play on roasted duck pancakes. Fraser Valley Dry Age Duck Breast served with triangles of scallion pancakes and to be topped pickled mustard greens, hoisin sauce, and albufera. The latter is a rich, ivory-colored, and velvety French sauce based on velouté, commonly served with poached or roasted poultry.
The duck was incredibly meaty with a lovely crispy and slightly fatty skin. Deliciously done as is and wrapped in the pancake with the pickle for balance. This was another fantastic dish I would want to have again.
And our last and eighth course was dessert. Almond Silken Tofu Panna Cotta with Fenju poached pear and a sesame crunch. This was a lovely and gentle morsel to end on. A smooth slurpable gel with a slight pinch from the fenju, followed by a nice crisp from the crumb. Whereas the pear offered freshness and the sweetness of fruit.
In between plates and mouthfuls guests were able to play a couple of rounds of mahjong courtesy of Lucky Tile Mahjong, who brought the tables and tile. This really accented the night and theme, closing the evening out for us. A truly special and successful evening that I would repeat again in a heart beat.
Good Thief
3336 Main St, Vancouver, BC V5V 3M7
(604) 428-3336
goodthief.ca
