During the summer it was announced that the management team behind the illustrious Mott32 would be taking over the operations of Carlino’s, the Michelin recommended Italian restaurant. I got a taste of what’s to come with the change, and that included a tease of a new brunch, yet to launch.
Therefore I was excited to try the full experience today. Since then Mott32 has earned a lot more accolades and the accompanying buzz, plus all of Carlino’s celebrity visits as of late.
During a previous stay at the then Shangri-la, i fondly remembered my in restaurant breakfast after check-out. I loved the fresh smoothie, the unlimited self serve flaky pastries, and unexpected bowl of congee. I was so enamoured with the idea of having congee from an Italian restaurant that I came in today wanting to order the exact same thing, but not surprisingly the entire menu had changed.
The setting remains as warm with a golden glow, dried botanicals on each table, and the light of windows soften with patches of artificial greenery.
We started our meal with their take on brunch staple cocktails. The Mimosa with your choice of with Orange, Apple, Cranberry, or Grapefruit Juice; served with De Bernard Prosecco. The Caesar gave you an option of having it as a single or double with Clamato juice, Worcestershire, Tabasco, and Lemon Juice. Both exactly as expected, helping to set a jovial mood.
My guest ordered the Carlino Breakfast Bowl with Italian pork sausage, soft eggs, toasted fregula, avocado, woodland mushrooms, tomato, seasonal greens, Parmigiano Reggiano, and salsa verde. Being lactose intolerant she figured this one would be the easiest to customize and have the cheese omitted. She found this to be a good mix of flavours and textures. And especially enjoyed the fregula, which is a traditional toasted semolina pasta from the island of Sardinia, in Italy. So essentially this was a pasta salad with a great ratio of vegetable and egg to pasta.
I went for the Benedict Modense with which their take on an eggs benny with cotechino, poached eggs, hollandaise, balsamic onion, and arugula over their house focaccia. The focaccia was definitely the highlight. Light, crispy, and buttery with fragrant herbs; I would have liked this as is. The rest of the assembly was as impressive, thick slices of sausages that doesn’t over power, and a rich creamy hollandiase that flowed more like a spread. I also appreciated having a couple of sweet caramelized onions the side. They were doubly sweet and offered some acidity to freshen heavier bites.
The brunch menu asks if customers are staying for lunch, making available the pastas they are known for, and having options of salads for a side of freshness.
I would take advantage of the latter after ensuring that their Caesar Alla Carlino did include anchovies. Little gem lettuce, roasted-garlic dressing, white anchovy, pangrattato, and Parmigiano. There is no option to have this as a side, and after seeing its presentation, I could see why. The leaves of lettuce were generously and thoroughly tossed in this delicious cream dressing. There was enough to pool at the bottom of the plate and mop up with any uncovered greens. The most impressive part was the thin and curved slices of crostini that encircled the salad like a gate. You broke this apart to make your own crotons. I could have used more chunks of sardine, after only being able to make out one single fish. Otherwise this was a tasty plate with generous amounts of everything, where I wasn’t missing any flavour. Utterly delicious, I would come back just for this.
In closing, I did miss the congee but found much more to now covet, and now want to come back to try everything else and then lunch.
Carlino Restaurant
1115 Alberni St, Vancouver, BC V6E 1A5
(604) 695-1115
carlinorestaurant.com
