Today we were at Le Crocodile for a lunch celebrating the French M. Chapoutier winery.
James, the Canadian export manager was on location, walking us through the glasses we would be tasting. Originating from France, he was now in Canada’s Montreal representing the brand. He would introducing us to seven different wines, each curated to pair with dishes from Le Crocodile’s kitchen.
As guests trickled in we were welcomed with a glass of their La Muse De RW 2017 Brut from the Saint Peary region. These were celebratory bubbles flown in from France, just in time for this luncheon. A dry and crisp wine, with notes of un-ripen pear to start. I found this such a wonderful introduction that I had a refill.
We were then asked to take a seat on either ends of their long table, each set up with the event’s drink and food menu, plus a brochure of all the wines we would be tasting today, which included detailed tasting notes.
We would first get an introduction to the Chapoutier family, learning what the “M” in the wine’s name stood for. From “maison” (home) to the first initial of most of the family members. Generation after generation has given their offspring “M” names. They are currently at the 8th generation, with the 9th just being born recently.
The family started making wine in 1808. In 1989 they transitioned their operations into being bio dynamic, with a focus on single plot wines. For example, all their white wines are 100% Marsanne, which is from a selection of their oldest vines. Their goal is to produce wine, where you can identify it from its terroir first, as a pose to their brand.
To start, we got a couple of amuse bouche to set the tone and pace. The first, a sweeter crocodile shaped cracker sandwiching a creamy and savoury foie gras terrine with a brightening strawberry jelly. This was well conceived and well balanced.
Although not intended to be, this was complementary with the first wine. The Granits St Joseph Blanc 2021. A well-balanced an harmonious wine with a subtle finality of spices, developing into a sweeter honey profile with its ageing. According to the vintage, the wine can be kept from 30 to 60 years. This retails for $268.99.
Our second amuse bouche was East Coast Sweet Select raw oysters, topped with a raspberry ice. An easy and playful sweeter slurp. This was a great way to open up the appetite, and I found it complimentary to the The Granits St Joseph Blanc 2021.
Handsome with a golden wax seal, the Granits St Joseph Blanc 2021 was heavily influenced by granite from the St. Joseph’s Appalachian, hence the name. Prepared with 100% Marsanne grapes, like all their other white wines, as mentioned above. There was lots of freshness and minerality form the granite, thanks to its 10-12 months of aging, avoiding new wood and any oakiness. The wine was casked, but with just enough in barrel to not add any influence to it. I liked the pepperiness of the wine that balanced out all the brine of our mollusk.
Our next wine was the Excellence Chante Alouette Ermitage 2018. A white with fruit from three different single plots, from three different elevations. All three covering the top with granite and mineral, the middle with more pebbles, and the bottom with rich clay soil. The result was a complex yet subtle wine with aromas of quince, walnut, honey, ginger. I got gasoline on the nose, with a smooth finish that is mellow enough for the gentle nature of the scallop below. A lingering end to best highlight the sweeter seafood below.
I really liked the Ricotta Pea Ravioli as our lightest course. One and a half Seared Hokkaido Scallops in Truffle Beurre Blanc. Each scallop half was seared buttery and toasty, accented by the sweetness of the peas and butter. A very harmonious plate with the cheesy pocket of pasta and vegetal pea shoots.
Our first red was the Croix De Bois Chateauneuf Du Pape 2021. This is a single plot wine named after the appalachian, notable with big pebbles and clay. The wine has no wood influence, aged in all concrete vats; acknowledging that 2021 was a challenging year for French wines with droughts in Northern Rhone, covid, and climate change. Fresh with bright colouring that will continue to evolve and keep. Declared a good cellaring wine that can be kept for 30-60 years. It was fruity with jammy strawberry aspects. The wine cuts into the fat of our wagyu below, offering breaks from its richness.
Although at the same time this was a lighter wine that was gentle enough to not overpower the delicate A5 Japanese Wagyu Striploin. Served with Celery Root Puree and a Citrus Jus. As expected, from the quality meat, it melted smooth marrying well with the velvety purée under it. The first and my favourite of our three red meat courses, selected to pair with the chosen featured wine.
Our second red wine was the Excellence Temenos Cornas 2017 from Northern Rhone, the most Southern appalachian. Here, the warm climate and terrain acts like amphitheatre of protection for the fruit. This was a blend of three parcels, covering low to high. The wine itself is broad on entry, then big on the mid-palate with velvety tannins. It had a nice balance between freshness and power, courtesy of aromatic spices.
The ripe black fruit and sooty notes of tobacco played off well with the jus of the Herb Crusted Lamb Saddle. Prepared with Red Pepper, Black Garlic Eggplant, Seasonal Vegetables, and Lamb jus. The red musk of the lamb was balanced by the lean vegetables and picked by the pepperiness of the spices.
The last wine was Monier de la Sizeranne 2016, a bold face and heavy wine to match well with the gamey venison end. Grapes from three parcels, West to East. It includes minerality and richness from pebbles and granite. A bottle named after their family, to reflect family values, offering accessibility and brail on the labels. The palate is round and elegant with concentrated and gentle tannins. It ends on blackcurrant, raspberry, and spicy pepper notes.
Venison, Port jus, and Seasonal Mushrooms. The game meat was very bloody and iron-rich. The wine was most helpful in cutting into this, with an equal richness to combat toe to toe.
For dessert we had a dessert wine just as sweet in the Banyuls Rouge 2021. The only one today not from the Rhone Valley, but a small port village instead. Chosen for its nice weather all year round. A sweet, 100% grenache, natural wine. Aged in concrete vats to avoid oxidation and to maintain the freshness of the fruit. This is a dangerous one as you can’t taste the alcohol from behind its sugars.
As for the pairing, this was unexpected. Not often is the wine sweeter than the dessert itself. Here, the bitter chocolate was soften by honey of the wine. Salted Caramel Ice Cream, Milk Crisps, and Feulletine. It had the dense texture of peaked mousse.
Overall, this was a lovely and amazing way to showcase the finesse of both the wine and food, together. Showing guests how to best pair this fine collection from M.Chapoutier. I utterly enjoyed myself.
Le Crocodile
100 – 909 Burrard St. Vancouver BC
604-669-4298
lecrocodilerestaurant.com
