Today we were at Parker Roof Top at Executive Hotel‘s Howe Street location.
This was my first time in this elegant space. Had I know it was this posh, I would have visited sooner. Chic with suede upholstery in navy blue and peridot green. The all glass exterior overlooking the city’s landscape added to its intended opulence. A modern and more approachable take on Gatsby gold.
We were seated on the uncovered patio, kept warm with heat lamps and woven blankets.
Guests were invited for an exclusive Industry Luncheon hosted by Daniel Brender, Chief Marketing Officer of the VSPT Wine Group. This specialty curated event featured an exceptional lineup of wines from VSPT’s distinguished wineries. Specifically their Chilean portfolio featuring 1865, Viña Tarapacá, and Viña Leyda. All thoughtfully paired with a refined BBQ-inspired menu for Parker’s kitchen, designed to bring out the unique character of each varietal.
We were welcomed in with a glass of the R&O Brut with soft aromas of florals and upfront ripe fruit notes like peaches and red apples. The palate was fresh and creamy with much body and a longer finish. I found it light in colour and taste, crisp and clean with lychee on the nose.
As we made introductions we were treated to an amuse bouche of Sasanian caviar, served on blinis with traditional accoutrement. There was also a cucumber one for those who are in need of gluten-free.
Our first course was the Fresh Catch Ceviche with white fish, lime, tomato, pickled red onion, and avocado crema. Meaty chunks of fish with fresh onion, and a citrusy finish. I especially liked the carrot chunks that cuts with its sweetness.
This was paired with Leyda Reserve Sauvignon Blanc 2023. The only winery able to carry the brand of the valley, as their owners were the ones who first founded the valley. They did this by investing in the land, funnelling water into the valley for agriculture.
The nose of the wine has great expression and aromatic intensity, revealing citrus fruit like grapefruit, limes, and mandarin oranges. This along with herbaceous notes like freshly mown grass and lemon verbena. This was a well-balanced wine with crisp, racy acidity, a creamy texture, and a citrus note in the finish.
I got sweet peppers on the nose, with a savoury bouquet of pink peppercorn and spices. Its saltiness from its proximity to the ocean made it a great partner to seafood, and the acidity of the ceviche made this its perfect pairing.
Our second course was Grilled Prawn Empanada with fire-roasted tomatoes, green onion, and gouda. It was a crispy pocket with a corn bread crust that reminded me of a hard Tex-mex taco in shell. It had a great texture to dig past to reach the sweet prawn centre. I just could have used more filling and more seasoning for a 1:1 ratio of patty to filling.
For this pairing we turned to a red. The Leyda Reserve Pinot Noir 2023 has a nose that reveals fruits of the forest and berries like blueberries, cherries, and raspberries. This along with a hint of spices and some herbaceous notes in the background. The palate was fresh, with juicy acidity, plus red fruit in the aftertaste and smooth tannins.
I got dark and cakey cherry on the nose, but it was mellow and breezy on the palate with light and juicy ruby fruits.
Course number three was Grilled Whole Fish. Red snapper with Chilean spices, olive oil, lemon, and herbs.
Precooked, the snapper was grilled warm on Parker’s patio grill, before being craved up and de-boned table side. Its additional oils, zestiness and salty finish made the distinct Tayu Pinot Noir 2020 a good pairing for the white fish.
This is a unique wine that is owned by and speaks to the indigenous peoples of the land. Its name means “ours”. This is a colder weather red that takes influence from the local herbs of the terroir. Tayu Pinot Noir 2020 is juicy with red fruits. It had a fresh, sharp, and vibrant acidity revealing the effect of the granitic soil, alongside its longer finish.
I have never had a wine like this. What you smelled on the nose was unexpected and I didn’t know that a wine could carry such characteristics. It smelled like a beach ball and it had the same plastically sweetness to it, coupled with leafy greens.
Our fourth course was the Eacabeche which is a collection of sausages that I found in need of a bold red to break it all down. Charred leek, marinated oyster mushroom, and grilled longaniza. Oily and rich in herbs, the beat needed a base to carry all its flavour, a mashed potato or some bread would have been welcomed. As is, the sausage was much with its fatty gristle. I liked the morel mushrooms, but did not find them all that complimentary to the meat.
The 1865 Carmenere 2022 served as a breath of fresh air in between bites. With notes of dark berries, mocha, bell peppers and cloves it cuts. A medium-bodied wine with fine tannins. Round and creamy with fruity and spicy characteristics.
I got tomato leaf on the nose, followed by the comparative sweetness of a jammy salted raspberry on the palate. It did well to help wash my mouth of the oily residue of its food pairing, thanks to its softer tannis.
This wine came with a unique story. Carmenere is a French grape variety, once believed to be extinct, but then found in Chile. There the farmers thought that they were growing merlot. Fast forward is now one of the signature grapes in Chile.
Our last meat course was a 30oz Bone-in Ribeye to be shared amongst the table. Like the fish, this too was grilled warm in a great show on the patio. Carved for easy sharing and presented with ensalada Chilena and house chimichurri for self service.
The meat was so easily to slice into, provided you had the right cutlery. I found it dry on spots and best where it is fattier at the ends. The steak’s flavour mostly came from the meaty jus, whereas the fresh, tangy, and herby Chimmichurri was the highlight for most. For my tastes I wanted more of a classic pepperiness to better align with the wine.
The Tarapaca Gran Reserva Organic 2022 is an intense, complex and elegant wine. It had prominent fruity notes of blackberries, blueberries, violets, and a touch of toffee.
I got a mixed berry punch on the nose with a jammy sweetness and a lush mouth-feel to match, ending it a tart raspberry note.
This came with a family style serving of a commonly seen Chilean salad of tomatoes and onion. The orange was an unexpected Canadian twist and my favourite part. An overall refreshing offering before we ended on dessert.
This was a Tiramisu completed with grilled figs, dulce de leche, and cacao powder. A causal creamy cake with whole lady fingers, well soaked in strong espresso.
We ended on this and the San Pedro Sideral 2021 with its intense aromas of ripe red and black fruit, like cherries and black. currants. Its palate presents a fresh and juicy wine with good acidity and structured tannins with a long, velvety finish.
This is a Bordeaux blend from the foot hills of the Andes. It is named after the constellation that you can see from their vineyards.
I got burnt raisin on the palate, and found that it played off the sugars of the figs well and was also bold enough to go toe to toe with the espresso. It is also recommended to pair with bbq and steak, alongside cocoa and chocolate.
In closing, we left the rooftop well fed and better hydrated. This was a great way to discover this portfolio and learn how to pair it for future meals.
Parker Rooftop
1379 Howe St 9th floor, Vancouver, BC V6Z 1R7
(604) 696-6951
parkerrooftop.com
