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Ellipsis: cafe & bar

The award-winning Waterfront Building finally has a tenant. The famous design by Canadian architect Arthur Erickson has long been vacant, however has recently opened as a dual concept cafe and bar. Located at the gateway to Granville Island, this live/work loft building will do well to serve its neighbouring tenants.

We were invited in prior to their official opening to check out how the space transforms from day to night. Aside from its unique shape and view, the functional art piece also features a projection sun that changes colour as the real sun sets and night progresses. I was seated right in front of it, so was able to catch its transitions.

I have been inside the building when it first opened as a tea salon. Today, much of that space has been landscaped to provide a more intimate setting. There is a row of tables against the back concrete wall, and a couple of additional seats between the bar and it.

On the café end is a standing counter for easy grazing and a showcase of pastries at ankle height. I thought the latter was a unique design choice for freshly baked croissants and eclairs in a variety of fruit flavours and dessert creams. I was partial to the breakfast, one with the whole sunny side up egg, and the one shaped like a bow. We were able to head home with a couple of these to go.

We also got a look at their brunch offerings, but none of it to taste. Therefore, I will not be able to make any comments to them.

We were, however, able to order caffeinated beverages from the coffee counter. The mango jam matcha latte was the most popular given its appearance. Everything was premade, so it was a matter of squeezing mango gel to the bottom of a glass, pouring in your chosen type of milk over ice next, and finishing off with matcha from another squeeze bottle.

I hand one myself, however in hindsight, this might have been a risky idea considering majority of the night would be spent working my way through the entire cocktail listing from their lounge menu, and milk curdles with alcohol.

The entire bar listing was created by one of my favourite local bartenders, Zoe Bates. Her reputation definitely proceeds her with this collection. Playful and whimsical, unique slips that are definitely worth making a special trip down for.

The following is in the order that they are listed on the menu.

What Keeps You Up at Night is the Ellipsis take on an espresso martini, but flipped on its head. Vodka, Cocoa, Espresso, Milk Clarified, and Orange Foam. A toasted Toasted Rice Pillow is a nod to the name, and one of many stand out garnishes Zoe deploys. More cream than coffee, the notes of orange is a lovely twist.

Is This Art has you literally licking the glass clean, thanks to a thick brushing of edible chocolate metallic paint. Pre-batched for easy pouring from tap this is Bols Melon, Matcha Cordial, Lemon, and Cardamom Distillate. I was pleasantly surprised and delighted by how well fizzy melon soda and matcha powder paired well with one another. It had a similar mouth feel to green juice, which made this as a great transitional day to night drink. The chocolate paint wasn’t necessary, but a nice dessert-like afterthought. And once again a fun garnish and reason to order it.

Are We There Yet was my favourite as I love peanut butter anything. Cinnamon Toast Crunch, Benromach 10YR, Peanut Butter Cream, Strawberry Jam Cordial, and Peanut Sesame Crunch. This reminded me of a toasted and still gooey peanut butter and jelly sandwich. Childhood nostalgia meets easy Sunday morning breakfasts, Zoe nailed this milky dessert cocktail.

What’s Your Red Flag is your party punch served in a ceramic red solo cup. So iconic that it looks like it has been crushed a little and comes with an ergonomic finger indentation. This was a tropical one with Rum, Chai Pineapple, Coconut, Lime, Mango Habanero Cordial, and Rice Lager.

The CA VA had to be the most memorable, crowned with a mini croissants from their café. What a great reference to the café within the lounge half. I would like to see this reciprocated with a nod of one of their cocktails or spirits in the brunch menu or have their cocktails made into pastries. This is Butter Washed Brandy, Croissant Syrup, Calvados, and a Mini Croissant.

The crowd was split on this one. It is intended to be a French pastry in a glass meaning decadent and full of butter, so a richer and oily mouth feel for most. This reminded me of Amarula and its sweet cream. I enjoyed it as a standalone, as a spiked rebuttal to a Frappuccino. It definitely fits the breakfast cocktail genre given its use of milk products.

So What Are We is your sweet and girlie cocktail option. Empress Elderflower Rose Gin, St Germain, Lemon, Grapefruit, Basil & Strawberry Cordial, and Rose Air. The foam topper was a fun finish.

What’s the Tea is another nod to their café from the bar. This is a tea inspired cocktail that changes daily. Always a secret and the menu needs you to ask. Today’s number featured Earl Gray.

The Who Came First was the strongest of the bunch. A mix of Tanqueray No. Ten, Fino Sherry, Ms Better’s Bitters Mt Fuji Bitters, and Passionfruit & Lemon Egg. I loved its slightly oily viscosity, and its great texture on my lips. As one who loves a drink that slaps back, this delivers.

And last, but not least, was the cocktail with no name: “…?” This was reminiscent of a Mojito, but without the mint. A tequila soda, with a refreshing hit of lime and berry, and zesty with the salt. Nodo Blanco, Ribena, Lime Leaf & Ginger Soda, Lemon, and Lime Leaf Salt.

As this was a private affair, the entire restaurant was booked and seated, and dinner was served in a large batch. Therefore, take this with a grain of salt as banquet dining deserves specific consideration, outside of a regularly paced dinner service. Not to mention I was not expecting a sit down meal to conclude this visit, therefore, ate ahead of time to accommodate all the drinking. I also did not allocate enough time for the full meal, meaning I left early, missing a few of the dishes that apparently received the best reviews. Nonetheless, this is what I did try and thought of each.

As our meal service began, we were able to sip our bar cocktails with a side of pickled crudités.

The food menu was a paired down, focussing on shared bites and small plates. It seemed to have his own personality outside at the bar menu. Meaning, it would have been nice to have the two align, and offer food pairings suggestions with the drinks. Majority of the cocktails were bright and punchy, whereas the food was bold and rich. As such, I would recommend ordering a couple of cocktails to start, and enjoy wine with your meal.

I fear the burrata might have been frozen and its watery consistency was due to condensation. Burrata, peaches, Earl Grey, sea salt, and charred bread. Lacking flavour, I could have used a generous sprinkling of Maldon salt to enhance its natural creaminess.

Instead, it relied on a side order of tomatoes, which two was on the watery side, due to its sitting out longer than expected. This was probably due to the size of the service. Marinated tomatoes, Shao Xing vinaigrette, and EVOO. The crispy bread helped bring them both together, but as a starter and compared to the cocktails this was a tad disappointing.

They offer three different Toasted Brioche toppings. A lot on its own, it is best to share with friends, as I found one even much.

The Liver mousse with boozy cherries and dark chocolate was the richest, and the one in need of wine to cut into. A lovely pate richness in contrast to the tart cherries.

The Roasted pear and Gorgonzola dolce was topped with walnuts and aged balsamic. This would have been nice with a dry Chardonnay. Blue cheese forward with the sweetness of the pear to brighten.

The Dungeness crab was a savoury bite that ate most like a full dish with the heat of Calabrian chilli XO. Sweet from the creamy seafood, yet potent with a back of the throat burn from the XO sauce.

These appeared to be a dim sum style deep fried taro dumpling, but elevated with puffed taro, braised duck, and pickled mustard. You got the familiar crispy and chalky whipped finish, paired with the saltiness of duck meat and the tang of mustard. Admittedly this was not for me, as I don’t like the dim sum version either.

The Pappardelle was thick sheets of noodles made in-house. Prepared with chanterelles, corn, Grana, and brown butter soy. This was definitely the most filling of the bunch, but a little bland as is. I wanted a meatier mix and more depth from spices.

Sadly I missed the Crispy potato and the Smoked duck breast due to my lack of time. However, those who stayed said it was worth their time to wait.

In short this continues to be a special locale and I can see success in this new concept. I would come for the cocktails, recommend the pastries, and am curious about their brunch.

Ellipsis
1540 W 2nd Ave #205, Vancouver, BC V6J 1H2
ellipsis.ca

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