I have heard the reviews have been average, but given that the owner is from Brunei, where I was born, I had to come down and try them anyways.
I first tried their food during an event, and then the small bites of satay and roti, didn’t impress me enough to compel an immediate return to have more.
However, when Monkey Joyce (known for her love of noodles), and I were looking for a spot for dinner, I decided it was now time to return to Golden Smell Mee. This was seeing as it would be Joyce first time visiting, and that we heard they make their own noodles by hand.
The restaurant is owned and operated by the same folks who have made BKH Jerky, a house hold name in Vancouver. In fact, this Chinatown store will eventually showcase said jerky, and those passing by will get a look at how it is made from the front window.
I walked in expecting childhood memories and familiar flavours I can’t get anywhere else, and the menu did deliver that for the most part. However, the one dish I wanted the most was not available. I have never seen “Lo Shu Fan” on any other menu. It is a dish my mom had prepared for us growing up, and I remembered enjoying in Brunei. Its name translates to “mouse dropping noodles” given its small tubular shape that is pinched at the ends. It has the texture of rice noodles, but with a thicker chew, and that is what I eat it for. However, they were sold out of this specialty product, not made anywhere or sold anywhere else. So I had to look to other childhood favourites like Laksa.
In truth, each time I order Laksa I know it will never be as good as the one my mom makes, even though she does use a paste imported from Malaysia. However, her add-on ingredient of mother’s love cannot be beat. Although if I do have to recommend a Laksa from a restaurant, it will have to be the one here, but only if you accept the side of sambal and use it all.
For those unfamiliar, Sambal is a pungent sauce made from chilies, garlic, shallots, lime juice, shrimp paste, and/or vinegar. This is what gave the soupy noodles its bold flavour, like no other. Without it I found the broth lean and bland, with it I ate all the noodles and packed the broth home to reuse. Spicy coconut curry soup with in-house GSM noodles paired with vermicelli, tofu puffs, shrimp, fish balls, fish cakes, boiled egg, fresh herbs, and bean sprouts.
Sticking to all my favourites we also ordered the Char Kway Teow, which is wok-fried flat rice noodles with Chinese sausage, egg, bean sprouts, and chives in a savoury dark soy sauce. We added on beef for a more familiar experience, and I preferred it over the sweeter sausage. The noodles itself were smokey and salty soy forward, but with not as much fire-missed wok hei as I would like. Although no complaints overall, it was slightly better than I thought it would be.
Another favourite of mine is Hainanese Chicken, it is available as a full or half bird, made into a platter with a sides to make it a complete meal. Poached chicken served with fragrant rice, accompanied by chili sauce, ginger paste, and dark soy sauce. The sauces are really what makes the dish memorable. I appreciated the generous serving and how free you get to be with both the green onion and ginger, plus the chilli garlic. Without the two I found the chicken dry and without character. I thought the soup had greater depth. Sadly, this won’t be one I will be revisiting.
However, I do want to return to try their Lo Shu Fan as well as their beef brisket, Nasi Lemak, and Beef Rendang. Once again dishes familiar from my childhood that I am hoping to like and get to more readily enjoy here.
When dining in, make sure you don’t leave without getting your complimentary cone of pandan soft serve. A great flavour to end your meal on, and to clean your palate with.
Golden Smell Mee
142 E Pender St, Vancouver, BC V6A 1T3
(604) 566-7733
goldensmellmee.com
