We have been eating a lot of Filipino food lately, so to stay true to form, but put a twist on things, we decided to visit Kulinarya for lunch. Think a modern take on traditional Filipino cuisine. So if you are familiar with any of such dishes, forget what you know and enjoy it for what it is; because there is no way around comparing everything to the authentic version.
I saw this first hand as my guest was of Filipino decent, and his palette couldn’t wrap his tongue around what his head expected, each mouthful to taste like. He would later declare this to meal to feel at conflict; where it was familiar but different, and the food was heavy yet clean. I too shared the same sentiment. Based on my limited experience with Filipino cuisine, Kulinarya’s decor and menu didn’t feel like a Filipino restaurant.
But I digress, let’s review it for what it is: something different. The decor is cottage-esque yet tropical at the same time. Decorated with dried wild flowers centre pieces that included mini pineapples, there were white painted brick walls, and booths upholstered in banana palms, a mural of magical skies and green pastures in pastels, a curio of vintage glass ware and knick knacks, and each table was set with a table cloth of either florals or fishes. It felt like a plant-based restaurant located on Main Street, but serving Filipino cuisine on Commercial Drive.
We would have to start with a couple of Red Horse Tall Boys, considering that is the only beer made in the Philippines by the San Miguel Brewery. It is referred to as an extra strong beer at 7%, but having tried many strong beers in that range or higher, I can honestly say that this drank more like an ale. It was pretty neutral and easy it was going down. Yet it paired well with all the flavourful and pungent dishes we would have below.
Worth noting is that they don’t normally do this, but when we confirmed we wanted glasses for our beers, our server took the initiative, and time to give them a quick cool in the freezer for that frosty glass chill.
Reading the name, I had to try the Pandan Wings, but sadly the distinct pandan flavour was no where to be found and the wings were dry. Seeing as pandan is a subtle herb, I could see it being engulfed by the other seasonings. A remedy would have to been to have more of their sauce on the side to dip into. Something a little extra to take it beyond the typical Asian style of salty, tangy, and sweet dressing.
The Okay Na Okay was a fun order, but no where near what was expected. Described as “Sweet potatoes and carrot fritters served with house-made soy and vinegar dipping sauce”. We would add on shrimp for $3, which would equate to a shrimp per piece, 4 total. We were thinking this would be smaller bites, with the above ingredients chopped up fine and mixed together for a regular sized patty. Instead, what we got were battered sweet potato fries and carrots battered and fried for a giant square, the size of a packet of instant noodles. This French fry fritter looked better than it ate. It lacked flavour even with the sauce. A creamy mayo based aioli would have helped, but I guess it would not be traditional, unlike the soy vinegar sauce actually provided. Although I hardly think this creativity is traditional either.
The Batil Patong was another mind bend. The menu described the item as being from “Roy’s hometown, Tuguegarao”. (I assume Roy is the chef). It was a mix of stir fry egg noodles, pork belly, egg, cabbage, carrot, bean sprouts, and ground beef. It ate like everything that they had in the fridge thrown together: leftovers and fresh vegetables remixed with a new sauce to coat it all. It had soy sauce notes, yet resembled a sweet spaghetti in tomato sauce. Especially with the ground beef and celery that seemed out of place, and the fact that the noodles highly resembled spaghetti. Given the mix and stir fry notion, a vermicelli would have been nicer, and more texturally compatible as well.
The dish I liked the most was definitely the Kare-Kare, but that is probably because it is the most traditional of the lot. Beef and tripe pieces (which we opted in for, but it is optional and they do ask) with vegetables in a thick savoury peanut- based sauce. I could of used more meat and tripe pieces, seeing as we ordered a large serving of rice in anticipation for this dish. The shrimp paste used in the sauce really gives it a nice umami flavour and the peanut butter makes it rich and creamy. Best with steamed rice to soak up all that saucy goodness.
This is simply our portion of Garlic fried rice. Rice is a generally a necessary add on with other, more traditional Filipino dishes; as I find them highly salty and in need of a base.
Tortang talong is an eggplant omelette, although lack lustre by description, it ate much better than anticipated. The unique mushy texture of eggplant was well balanced by crispy eggy coating. And it was served with Filipino banana ketchup. It is basically their version of ketchup, but less tangy, more sweet, and a more tomato tasting sauce. You can also use more of it than regular ketchup as it doesn’t overwhelm the same way ketchup does.
In reflection, I liked the setting and the experience, but having been once before (prior to covid when they severed a feast for a large group on banana leaves, to be eaten by hand), this was not the restaurant that I once remembered. Back then that was my introduction to Filipino cuisine and I liked what I had. Now, the menu has changed, and the dishes are less fusion, but more a liberal take on the cuisine. And having tried so many authentic restaurants and having prepared Filipino dishes myself, this did not live up to the rich flavours, heavy sauces, and satisfying fattiness that I have fondly classified Filipino cuisine to be. I would only recommend Kulinarya to those unfamiliar with the cuisine as a starting point for further exploration.
Kulinarya Filipino Eatery
1134 Commercial Dr, Vancouver, BC V5L 3X2
(604) 255-4155
kulinarya.ca
