Tonight I got to be a fly on the wall, as an honourary member of the BC Wine Appreciation Club. Although sadly, this might be my first and last time, considering they are shutting the club down by the end of March 2025. This is due to ageing group members and no one wanting to take on the responsibility of leading, scheduling, and curating the discussion of wine amongst still participating group members.
We were assembled at a communal event space that featured wine cellar rentals for the public, including the one leased BC Wine Appreciation Club. A perfectly chilled, climate controlled, concrete space that included time released mist.
Their cellar was a closeted rack that featured local Okanagan wines. Normally the club decided what bottles to purchase and cellar; securing four bottles of each, to be shared during member meet ups. What was left here today was the residual of such tastings, the odd one or two bottles left and they had a year to finish it, before their rental lease required a renewal.
Tonight we were doing a Meritage tasting. As members gathered earlier, they were welcomed with glasses of rose and the ability to graze from a meat, cheese, and cracker platter. The platter would later serve as a great breath of fresh air in between such rich sips of bold reds.
I would walk away with new found knowledge and the experience of a wonderful evening, accompanied by like-minded people.
Our night began with how to pronounce, “Meritage”. Hint: it doesn’t rhyme with garage. Ironically, despite people’s tendency to Frenchify the word it is a fully American invention and the melding of the words “merit” and “heritage”. The California vintners who created the Meritage Alliance in 1988 sought to create a recognizable name for red blends, without infringing on Bordeaux’s legally protected designation of origin. In a public contest to name this blend, over 6,000 submissions were made before the winner was selected. The reward was two bottles of the first ten vintages of every wine licensed to use the brand.
Additional irony is that most of the six wines in tonight’s tasting don’t actually use the term “Meritage”, (this is likely to avoid the licensing fee), but they do meet the definition of Meritage, or could just as easily be called a Bordeaux-style blend. The key requirements for either is the use of at least two of the traditional Bordeaux varieties (Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Cabernet Franc).
Seven stones “The Legend” 2009 is from the Silkenmen valley. This is their first vintage and still fresh, given the age. Great with charcuterie considering its see-saw of brininess with a quick transition to neutral. Plenty of tannis makes your mouth water, green pepper on the nose, and pickled pear on the palate.
Black Hills “Nota Bene” 2010 from the Black Sage Bench. All the tannins has gone from this through aging, but it still retains some fruit notes. It combines all three heavy hitters of Cab Sauv, Merlot, and CabFranc; also known as the “Royal Three”. Together, it gave the wine an inky, saline quality with a faint rosy floral essence to mellow it out at the end.
Sandhill Small Lots “Two” 2012 from Gold Hill. This was another one with the “Royal Three”. I personally found it flat, with bright raw berry on the nose. The rest of the room was a fan, and considering the company, I am definitely the outlier.
The Gold Hill Family Reserve 2013 from the Golden Mile, won the Lt. Gov Award. Without any Cabernet Sauvignon, this one was not like the others, and a stand out as a result. Unripen cherry to start and plenty of chocolatey coco at the end.
Tinhorn Creek “The Creek” 2014 has grapes both from Gold Mile and Black Hills, this gave it a silky and creamy consistency. Mixed berry pie notes with warm stewed fruit and tart rhubarb.
Fairview Cellar’s “The Bear” 2015 had its fruit coming from the Northern most of the Golden Mile, outside of Oliver. This was the youngest of our tasting pours, at 10 years. The freshest that still lingers on the palate, where the others were past or pushing it. This was very raisiny to start with tender violet to end.
This was such a treat, to be part of a wine club for the evening, without having to pay any of the membership dues or help clean up afterwards.