Today we were gathered at Miku for an intimate introduction to Uruguay’s wine scene through a three course lunch with wine parings from Bodega Garzón.
Our time began with some mingling in their private room where we sipped on their sparkling option, while locating our assigned seating.
This was mainly a Pinot Noir blend of rose. A drier wine with natural, non-corrected acidity. It gives you a creaminess in the back of your throat, readying you for the food to come.
Our time was hosted by Mele Sosa, North American brand ambassador for Bodega Garzón, and well-respected wine producer in Uruguay. After hearing her speak I can see why she is so acclaimed. She has a way with words, and paired with her robust accent it flows and drips into your ears. As rich and bold as the wines we were to try.
Our wine tasting included the Garzón Albarino, which is a new release at the BCLS, whereas the others are all available nationally.
Bodega Garzón is located in Uruguay’s Maldonado region, it is renowned for its sustainable practices and award-winning wines. Most famous for their Tannat, Uruguay’s flagship grape. The winery also excels with their Albariño and Cabernet Franc. They are the world’s first fully LEED-certified winery, committed to environmental stewardship. With its unique terroir, top critic ratings, and exceptional ecotourism experiences, Bodega Garzón has established themselves as a leader in innovative winemaking on the global stage.
Our seated lunch began with the Albariño Reserva 2022 poetically described as a “Sip of the ocean”. If “Sweet peach made love to magnolia flowers in an oyster shell bed”. I got Granny Smith green apple on the nose with tart pear to follow on the palate, all rounded out by a buttery mouth feel.
Here, we were given a funny anecdote. The winery wasn’t their first option for the land. It was originally sourced for windmills. However, the wife of the owner rejected the idea, saying that it would take away from the stunning view. So they did some land research and realized that it would be an ideal terroir for grapes. This is based on its proximity to the ocean and the soil quality of their rolling hills. They have one of the oldest decompose granite deposits, lending its minerality, which ultimately makes their wine special.
With our glass of white we had Miku’s Hokkaido Scallop Crudo with sudachi compressed apple, white soy, and chervil oil. This menu was specifically curated to feature Miku’s renowned aburi with a focus on local and Japanese ingredients, as per the kitchen’s expertise.
The scallop was sliced thin for a gentle softness in the mouth. Sweet and supple on the tongue accented with sugars from the Salt Spring apples and the herbaceous-ness of the fragrant basil. The dish’s higher acidity paired well with our ocean side wine, picking up all these flavours in contrast.
Our second course started with the Bodega Garzón Cabernet de Corte Estate 2021. There is a hint of Uruguay’s national grape tanat in this popular Cabernet Franc. Tart cherry on the nose, a spicy savouriness with pepper and cayanne notes on the palate.
All their wines are without make up, no chemicals of synthesis, no over ripe fruit, and nothing over structured. They don’t utilized the punch over technique, there is no over oaking, and no wine maker influence. They pride themselves of being neutral with no big imprint. Their wines speak to the land, as an expression of the space.
The wine was true to the variety of the grape, with savoury notes cutting into sweet sauce. The fat content of the wagyu paired well with the Cabernet Franc. The acidity of the bold red allowed the marbling of the meat to sing, adding its own spice to the red meat.
The Aburi Iwate Wagyu was 45 wagyu striploin, egg yolk vinaigrette, fried shallots, and ume salt. This was a beautiful bite. Another elegant dish with a just as lovely mouth-feel. Truly the best slice of wagyu I have had to date, and now all the others I have had pale in comparison. Dressed with fragrant shallots that offered crunch, and greens that added freshness, all enrobed in a sweet honey coating.
The third course featured their Tannat Reserva 2020, the wine that change the history of Uruguay. A grape from Southern France, immigrated to a country with more cows per capital. This wine has the most accolades. It is the most well known tannat in the world, and it is now available in Canada.
Tannat is the most healthiest of grapes, with a high level of antioxidants and tannis. Great for balancing out cheese and charcuterie. Mele cleverly described this as “Nature’s Botox”. This isn’t an overpowering wine. Raspberry and apple on the nose, a richness with minerality on the palate, ending on a note of soothing sweetness.
This we enjoyed accompanied by Duck Breast with kabocha squash, shio koji beet puree, Garzón Tannat Reserva red wine jus, and charred shishito pepper. This was a perfectly prepared slice of buck breast, and at this point of our meal it felt expected. The flavour of the buttery squash envelopes the roasted duck, adding a blanket of cream along side the freshness of the beets. Both help to cut into the fattiness of the duck and its meaty gravy. I appreciated how the wine pairing made an appearance here. I also liked the shishito, especially as I got a spicy one, although this felt like a wild card.
For our fourth course we had the Balasto 2018. This is the only blended wine that Bodega Garzón offers. Aged 2 years in French oak and you could taste it. It is named after their billion year soil, that we were now convinced made a difference in all the glasses we were drinking.
After time spent decanting. I got green strawberry and rhubarb on the nose with pear and juicy tomato on the palate. This was a wine meant for aging.
The Bodega Garzón team and Mele wanted to challenge their wine with this pairing, to showcase its drinkability, and they did well. You wouldn’t think to pair sushi with a red, but the tannis of this was so integrated. Plus the quality of the fat present in the fish, (especially the tuna), made it helpful to have to help cut into it, peeling back any would be metallic flavour.
From Miku we had their Aburi Premium Oshi made bite sized. We ate it in the order that was recommended, starting with the Bluefin Tuna that was luscious in mouthfeel, coupled with ocean salt from the caviar.
The Applewood Smoked Salmon was creamy and sumptuous, it had a great umami quality to it.
And the Japanese Unagi was our last bite given its oaky smokiness. It was a pop of excitable flavour.
And for dessert we had their Petite Green Tea Opera Cake as a gentle end. Not a sweet dessert, the slight bitterness of the tea cleanses and bites back against the wine. I appreciated the crunchy layer, and the tart fruit and dark chocolate that matched the nature of the tea.
In short, I could not have asked for a better introduction to Uruguay wines. I loved the Japanese-Canadian pairing, but now can’t help but wonder how Bodega Garzón wine would pair with traditional Uruguay cuisine. As for Miku, they are never a bad time and I have never had a bad meal.
Miku Vancouver
200 Granville St #70, Vancouver, BC V6C 154
(604) 568-3900
mikurestaurant.com
