Partially owned by the same Chef behind Boulevard in Vancouver, Wild Blue has been long on my foodie bucket list. And today during Cornucopia’s two week long run, I would finally get my first look and taste of Wild Blue, through this signature dinner. The evening featured their elevated cuisine paired with Italian wines from Mirafiore winery, highlighting Barolo and truffles.
Compared to Boulevard in Vancouver, Wild Blue in Whistler’s decor a lot more funky and fun. It is smaller space centred around a full bar.
As a ticketed event, we were seated in their private room that doubles as their wine cellar. Surrounded by bottles, all 18 seats were set across two tables, communal style, that encouraged talking and the making of new friends. And we would do just that.
Each individual walking in was greeted with a glass of sparkling, which would be a first wine pairing up the night. To be had with our amuse bouche. The Diavoletto Brut, Metodo Classico, Alta Langa, Piedmont, Italy 2021 translates to the “little devil”. Done in the classic method using Pinot noir and Chardonnay. You got fine bubbles and a good mouse from this. I took note of juicy and crisp pear.
It was as pretty and as light as our brioche, egg, and black truffle amuse bouche that read like breakfast. The egg inside the shell was scrambled light and fragrant with the shaved truffle that topped it. You spooned out some and laid it across your thin slice of chives covered toast. This was so simple, but the lovely presentation really took it to new heights.
Here we also had some complimentary bread. Their house made sourdough that came out so fluffy, against the creamy and easy to spread cultured butter. On its side some salty olives in olive oil that you could also dip the bread in to.
Our first course was pasta, which really spoke to the direction we were going with this dinner. Rich and decadent right out of the gate. Tajarin with white truffle slices and more cultured butter. A simple, perfectly prepared noodle to really highlight the truffle against the clean sauce.
With it we enjoyed the Nascetta, Piedmont, Italy 2023. Its name translates to “rebirth” and it really did well to cut into any rich cream with tropical fresh notes and apricot.
Our third wine was Barbera d’Alba Superiore, Piedmont, Italy 2021. It underwent 12 months of aging, 6 months of which are in bottle. This was examined as a look at the direction they are going with their sustainable and organic, all hand harvest winery. The Superiore was a well balanced and even keeled red that acted as a nice pause in between the bites of sweetbreads below.
Veal Sweetbreads with variations of parsnip and madeira truffle jus. For those unfamiliar, “sweetbreads” are edible organ meat, usually from a calf (veal) or lamb. Their name gives them a more appetizing twist. Where they aren’t actually sweet or bread. They are typically the thymus gland or pancreas located in the neck and chest or near the stomach. They have a firm and gamey texture that is often smother in a forgiving sauce, such as this. This was a sweet and salty sauce that reminded me of Chinese style meat glazed. I liked the use of parsnip that lightened the dish and added some sweetness to it.
We finally got to Barolo, Piedmont, Italy 2019 on our fourth course. Ab embolden red with notes of spicy peppercorn that helped to tame the strength of the steak below.
Wagyu with locally foraged porcini, sunchoke, and black truffle jus. The Wagyu was not fatty, but on the lean side with a lovely grain. Its accompaniments complimented it well, offering variety in textures.
For our final savoury course we had two reds to pair. Either the Paiagallo, Piedmont, Italy 2017, with more perfume and less tannins. Or the Barolo Riserva, Piedmont, Italy 2015. The latter is more exclusive as they only make a riserva when they have a good vintage and 2015 was it. The flavour softens, but still sits on the front of tongue
Here, we learned that in Italy irrigation is not legal and they have to rely on nature to provide. Therefore a good vintage is all the more meaningful and special.
Duck Duo: seared duck breast, seared foie gras, cherry reduction confit duck and torchon croquette, pomme puree, and duck jus. Despite there being duck in different ways across the plate, I found the dish overwhelming with all the elements. I didn’t necessarily find the croquettes complimentary, they were dry and didn’t have a sauce to dip into for moisture or flavour. I did like the duck breast with the potato puree and jus as a classic combination. The seared crispy duck skin with a bit of the tart cherry reduction was especially tasty. I also liked the foie gras, but alone, as is. It deserves its own stage given how luscious it was, yet it tried to dim itself to be had with the duck.
For dessert, Mirafoire Winery doesn’t make a dessert wine so they played with this pairing of Vermouth di Torino Rosso Superiore, Piedmont, Italy NV. It was different and served more as a palate refresher for the chocolate bomb below.
I am not a big sweets or chocolate person, but the Guanaja Chocolate Truffle Mousse with giangua feuilletine, candied orange, and cocoa soil really impressed me. I got the most truffle flavour from this. Embedded into the crust, complimentary to the dark chocolate, and giving the dish overall savoury quality. It was smokey and woodsy and not at all what I expected, in a surprise and delight way.
In conclusion, this was an amazing dinner that I won’t soon forget. What an incredible introduction to the restaurant and winery. Definitely my favourite of all the Cornucopia 30th events that we attended this year. Occasions like this really make Whistler worth travelling to this time of year.
Wild Blue Restaurant + Cocktail Bar
4005 Whistler Way, Whistler, BC V8B 1J1
(604) 962-2233
wildbluerestaurant.com
