It has been a while since I first visited Arcana, Gastown’s spooky occult bar. I knew that when I returned it would be with Joyce of @monkeyeatsworld, who would appreciate their unique and cohesive theme. I would be correct, as her head was on a swivel taking it all in, just as I did during my first visit.
For those who have never been, the all black walls are well decorated with antiques and black and white photographs of the macabre. The room dimly light with neon lights, projected graphics, faux stain glass, and golden candle light.
There was a line up right when they opened at 5pm and all reservations were booked for this busy Saturday night.
We spent some time at the bar, chatting up the head bartender Ryan, and watching our cocktails being shaken to order. I am actually familiar with Ryan and his work, having seen him compete in Giffard’s West Cup Western finals this last summer. He won the competition and the crowd with his cocktail with a story.
Our visit coincided with the start of Capricorn season, so they have a new cocktail to celebrate. We started with that. This is the Capricorn G.O.A.T. Described as being savoury, bright, and adventurous. Clarified goat milk, orange liqueur, acidified lacto-fer-mented tomato marinara, and Teremana tequila.
I can’t say no to a savoury cocktail, especially one where you can’t taste the alcohol, but you can feel it. This one changes mid sip, from a classic lime focussed margarita to the promised Italian spices of a Margherita pizza. The breadcrumb rim was a nice touch, it didn’t add much seasoning, but offered a gritty texture on the lips and the scent of a pizza crust in the nostrils.
The next two cocktails were themed after tarot cards, the entire listing revamped as the the second version of each. Having tried the first round, I can confirm this one was a lot more inspiring and exciting. Each with its own tarot card that you can take home as a keepsake.
The Lover’s is Ryan’s winning cocktail from the competition mentioned above. A take on an Aviation that has a floral, juicy, and complex bouquet. Mezcal, Odd Society Creme de Cassis, Giffard Rhubarb liqueur, Creme de Violette, and lime juice. This was balanced with The Woods Chiaro pineapple foam, and a pair of in house made boozy gummy bears. It was smoke-forward and sweet to the end.
The Tower is another savoury cocktail, a blend of umami and tropical that is spirit forward. The card represents transformation and the cocktail gave you just that between its appearance and flavouring. A blend of a dashi, cucumber & mint infused vodka, lychee liqueur, Bianco Vermouth, Woods Chiaro, and squid ink.
The cocktails starts out a murky white and after a few sips the drops of squid ink that finishes it, mixes and turns the glass an ominous black. Similarly, what you smell from the glass is not what you taste with the richness of salted spice in your nostrils versus the lightness of lychee and cucumber on your tongue.
This is one of the drinks that will be featured on Arcana’s New Years Eve menu. They are throwing a masquerade soiree on the night from 9pm to 2pm. $66.60 entry fee grants you a “night of mystery, elegance, and fortune-telling” with VIP packages available. They will also be showcasing two new speciality cocktails to mark the celebratory occasion.
And as much as we enjoyed the drinks, we found the food of the same quality. Once again, having tried the original menu this past summer, I found both the updated food and drink offerings an improvement today. Both truly felt better in line with the already awe-inspiring decor.
We were seated on the second floor with a wonderful view of the bar high above. Here, we ordered the three newest menu items, but admit that we were highly tempted by the names of the other dishes like “Poultrygeist Wings” and “Ouji Board” that doubled as a charcuterie board.
We started with the pork belly appetizer titled, “Belly of the Beast”. Five spice pork belly bites with ponzu gel, chili fleur de sel edamame pods, and sesame and pepper emulsion. Fatty bite-sized slices of fried crispy pork belly. Tasty and salty as is, but better with a swipe through the sauces adjacent, a good snack to pair with a drink. And the side of edamame offered something to keep the hands busy with.
The Bison Wicca Polpette is Bison meatballs with grana padano, basil, tomato jam, mornay sauce, and grilled focaccia bread. Joyce is lactose intolerant so we had our cheese on the side for me. I was impressed that a gamey meatball was this moist at its dense centre. There was plenty of flavour from the tangy tomato based sauce, and I had plenty of cheese to sprinkle over and add its saltines.
We had more pork with the Pork Loin Divination entree. A 12oz roasted pork loin with garlic rapini, baby white turnip, creme fraiche, pecorino potato pavè, and spruce vermouth jus. An elevated plate that I did not not expect out of this kitchen. Like all the other proteins, the pork here was just as tender and juicy. A little heavy, the side of vegetables were needed and helpful in adding some freshness and a break in between meaty bites. Crispy layered potato, firm radish, and stringy greens rounded out the plate.
In closing, Arcana is a great spot for food, drink, and decor. There is nothing like them in Vancouver and worth checking out, if not just for their Zoltar fortune telling machine that accepts tap as payment.
Arcana Food and Spirits
238 Abbott St, Vancouver, BC V6B 2K8
(604) 336-4006
arcanabar.com
