This is my second time at Autostrada’s Britannia Village location. The first was almost a year ago when we visited for then village’s grand opening. Then and there we were treated to cocktails and canapés as a reception style mingler. So to be able to revisit today and sit down for a full formal dinner was an absolute treat.
For those who have visited the Vancouver location, the one in Britannia will seem like a distant cousin, instead of a sister restaurant. There is a greater focus on seafood, given the proximity of the restaurant to the Howe Sound and its waterway views. But on top of that, they are also serving their immediate community, which means catering to more appetites with a more well rounded and fulsome menu that includes pasta, entrées, soups, salads, and everything in between; that you would expect from a casual restaurant.
We would sample a little from all the above to get a good idea of the kitchen’s ability; and spoiler: we left utterly full and incredibly happy.
First of all, the staff are as friendly and as hospitable as you would imagine from a small town, such as this. I can see Autostrada being the local hotspot, as well as that special date night destination for the neighbouring Squamish or even Whistler. And fun fact, they are only a 26 minute drive from West Vancouver, so if you’re thinking about having dinner in downtown Vancouver, Britannia Village is a quicker drive and one that serves as a lovely out of city escape.
We were tempted by the patio, with seats that give you an unobstructed view of the mountains, but that meant eating at our knees on lower tables that also served as a fire bowl at night. Instead, we opted to dine indoors on one of their booth tables. The following is what we tried, as recommended by the owner, Dustin.
We started with a collection of their seafood starters, served as a platter. There was a selection of Shucked Oysters from both the East and West Coasts. Served with the restaurant’s mango habanero hot sauce, red wine mignonette, and horseradish.
The BC Albacore Tuna Crudo included olive, almond vinaigrette, fennel, radish, and herbs. A refreshing mix that was a blend of crispy fennel and soft fish. A light start to follow the oysters.
The Salmon Tartare included capers, shallots, pickled onion, and avocado. Eaten with a handful of deep fried potato chips to use as a base to scoop it all up with.
My favourite of the platter was the Prawn Cocktail. Four large pieces of prawn sitting on a bed of butter lettuce with their Mary Rose Sauce of dipping into.
The Fritto Misto Di Mare was described to us as an Italian mixed tempura. This was a clever way to use bits and ends of their collected seafood. The assortment varied from day to day, and tonight it was salmon and lingcod. In the past it included mussels, clams, and fried leek. All battered and fried, then served with a lemon aioli for dipping. I thought this a lovely and unexpected medley, and apparently this is one of their most popular sellers.
I was impressed by the Italian Pugliese Burrata and Prosciutto. It is not often that you see a whole round of burrata cheese being served. It is more commonly a half and the same $32 that they are asking it for here, but at Autostrada it also includes a whole plate of thinly sliced prosciutto with peperonata and watercress. According to the owner, it was important to him that the presentation spoke volumes and that the burrata itself was spreadable. He delivered on these intentions.
For entries we started with their 10oz Steak Frites. A classically prepared New York striploin with peppercorn sauce and shoe string fries. Everything was prepared perfectly. The steak was an even pink and it included a good amount of tender gristle. With it, the fried were a delicious crisp. No complaints over this one.
One of their seasonal sides was this garden tomato salad that included a mix of colours and varieties dressed in olive oil. This was a lovely fresh plate and a palate refresher all in one.
Admittedly I am not a fan of fish, but I love the interest that this plate offered as a while. Ling cod with beurre Blanc, spring green, potato, salmon roe, and clams. I shy away from fish because I usually find its meat dry and fibrous, but here I loved its crispy grill and the gentle flavour picking up the essence of the butter and ocean salt from the fish roe and clams. I have never had a dish so stacked, yet so complimentary and harmoniously balanced. I was impressed and wished I had some bread to mop up the additional sauce with.
And as a nod to the Vancouver osteria and its specialty of pasta, we had this signature Bucantini Cacio E Pepe. This is a familiar and traditional, simple pasta with single origin black pepper and pecorino. It wonderfully demonstrates the importance of quality ingredients.
And as full as we were, we could not walk away without trying their tiramisu. A traditional dessert served whimsically in a tea cup with saucer. This is more chocolate and cream than espresso. It had a lovely whipped light, creamy texture to it.
In short, we had an amazing time and will most definitely return each time that we visit Britannia Village.
Autostrada Britannia Beach Oyster Bar and Grill
115 Main St, Britannia Beach, BC V8B
(604) 894-0660
autostradahospitality.ca
