Today we were invited down to Carlino’s to experience their new Aperitivo hour.
The property is under new management and this is how they are making their presence known. They have kept all the same front of house and kitchen staff, so currently the only thing you will notice different is their menu offerings. The management group are well known and beloved figures in the Vancouver food and drink scene.
We were gathered by the bar, the area serving as a spot to mingle and graze from shared plates. And where we heard from the new team and the vision they have for Carlino’s in the future. They do plan on making changes, and intend to do so while still maintaining their Michelin recognition and delivering on the expectations of their loyal guests.
This change comes in line and in time with the latest acquisition of Shangri-La Hotel by Hyatt, with plans to rebrand the adjoining hotel to a Hyatt Park; which is their highest tier of hotel property.
After this launch of happy hour they hope to broaden their Italian theme. No longer just one region, they hope to expand on their Northern Italian cuisine through the lens of the Pacific Northwest. They have also taken the feedback of their customers and hope to make the restaurant more approachable. This includes easier to read menus, more modest pricing, updates to the wine program’s affordability with a BC focus, and larger format dishes for easier family-style sharing. All this we will see in redevelopment of their entire menu, much like their happy hour menu today. This isn’t just a paired down and tapered version of their regular menu, but one that is completely separate and only available during 2:30-5pm time slot, daily.
The goal is to bring their concept back to the basic roots of European culture. The bar here serving as a place to disconnect from outside, where guests are able to come in and slow down.
The event was a mingler with standing room, where we were able to try and sample from the entire happy hour menu. The service was done canapé style, so the portions seen here will most likely not be what you will be getting, should you visit yourself. I also missed a couple of dishes, so they won’t be mentioned either.
First we started with drinks. I was ecstatic to see that they had a happy hour Lambrusco. This was $9 a glass, which is the same for a glass of red and/or white wine. You don’t often see Lambrusco on a menu, let alone available during happy hour at a discount.
The $9 pricing extended to the cocktails like the Amore Amaro. This was layered and bittersweet, really playing off the essence of the steeped tea. Amaro del Capo, Nonino Amaro, cassis liqueur, and carbonated white tea. This was a refreshing glass that I found complimentary to the food.
I also had the Off The Record which was a rich, complex, and spirit-forward cocktail, with aromatic depth. This was a mix of rye whiskey, rum, amaro, sweet vermouth, and bitters. This was a play on the classic Manhattan, and their strongest drink of the list at $10, but still an amazing deal.
As for food, the Rosemary and Parmigiano Popcorn were complimentary and a great salty nibble.
The Sicilian Fried Olives with ricotta, herb, and lemon aioli were a nice snack to have with stronger cocktail. Typically briney olives are tempered with a fragrant breading. I found myself popping them like candies.
We were all impressed to discover that the Warm Crispy Potato Chips were made from scratch, in house. They were regular, salted as is, but best with their accompanying Cippolini Onion Dip. The dip was creamy and runny, and easy to scoop with the boat shaped chip. This dip would also served me well throughout the rest of the menu as I used it within the sliders and as dip for a few other fried items like the Classic Arancini balls below.
The Classic ArancinI was risotto rice with aged cheese and tomato sugo, rolled into a ball to be breaded and deep fried. It had a lovely crispy and chewy texture, but I found it a little plain compared to all the other items in comparison. And that is where the onion dip came in.
The Mortadella Focaccia was nice for those who order to have it as a late lunch. Toasted bread with quality mortadella, stracciatella, and a pistachio pesto.
The Parmigiano Chicken Wings were like chicken lollipops dressed in Calabrian chili and sitting in a pool of preserved lemon ranch dip. This was a tasty snack that I would order again.
The Chicken Milanese was served like a chicken slider. The flattened and breaded patty sitting between a potato bun with arugula, pecorino, and lemon aioli. Yet another plate where I could have used more sauce for my tastes, and found myself reaching for my trusty bowl of onion dip.
The Veal Meatballs were hearty and dense rounds dressed in tomato sugo and pecorino. These were filling and could eat like a meal, but I thought it could still use a starch to round things out. I would have like some crostini, as a base and for the excess sauce and cheese.
The Pacific Blue Prawns were simple and as expected, seasoned with garlic butter, chili, and basil. As a plate on its own, this too could have used a bread or starch.
The Grilled Lamb Sausage were thin ropes fragranced heavily with peperonata and oregano oil to cut out any would-be gaminess. This and the other meat only dishes above would have served as great add-ons to any simple pasta dish.
I was a big fan of the Chicken Liver Pâté served with bruschetta, balsamic, and chestnuts. The flavour was so distinct, that those who love that umami funk would appreciate this.
I also really enjoyed the Montasio Potato Cake with slow onions. It had a lovely exterior crunch and a gooey cheesey-like centre. It reminded me of a compact combination of Shepherds pie and cheese toast.
And with options like whole plates of pasta and full sized burgers, the menu easily transitions to dinner and can serve as it, as well.
Oxtail Postage Stamp Ravioli in a brown butter pangrattato. This was heavier and meaty like stew. I just could have used some freshness to cut into the one toned flavour and inject more depth.
The Manzo Burger was their show piece. A thick prime rib beef patty cooked to a pink centre and topped with cheddar, bacon jam, arugula, and tomato. Seeing as they prepare their patties in house, you have the option of choosing how rare you like it. There is no hiding the quality of beef used and that its flavour is the over arching character here. I just would have liked some aioli or a dip to add some moisture and change the taste mid-way through.
Over all the menu is terrific. I have not seen such an affordable and comprehensive happy hour listing else where. And this l from such a prestigious and award winning property like Carlino is rare. I fully recommend them for happy hour food, drinks, and vibes.
Carlino Restaurant
1115 Alberni St, Vancouver, BC V6E 1A5
(604) 695-1115
carlinorestaurant.com
