Now that the weather is getting better and mask and capacity restrictions have been lifted (and have stayed as such for some time now), dining out is back in a big way. And that means everyone’s favourite weekend past time: Brunching is bumping.
From the sea of options there is a new standout. Downtown Asian fusion restaurant turn night life hot spot, is now serving a one of a kind brunch every weekend. I visited a couple of weeks ago, when they just launched and here are the stand out items I tried.
But first drinks, because what is brunch without bubbles. And there is no better way to serve it than from out of a mimosa cart. The whole cart is carted (easy pun, had to take it) to each table side, and an offer to pour a custom mimosa is literally put on the table. And with all the pageantry, there is no saying no.
You have a choice of what you want your sparkling on ice to be mixed with. There is the classic orange and the popular passion fruit. I went for the lychee mixer which drank thick and syrupy like the fruit. But my favourite would be the elderflower with its light floral notes and sweet effervescence. Just be warned that the syrup does settle and if you don’t swirl, your last sip will be a sweet one.
Seeing them behind the bar, I had to inquire as to which drinks comes in either their panda or ninja tiki mugs. And with that we had two Fuzzy Peach cocktails. Henessy VS, Bacardi Superior, Cointreau, Cava, peach, lemon, grapefruit, and orange bitters. Your purchase includes the tiki mug they are served on, so already it is well worth it. No surprise here that the drink is sweet and boozy. A fun sipper and a fun way to transition from Brunch to Happy Hour.
As for food, I had to get the Green Eggs and Ham for name alone. Who hasn’t read the Dr. Seuss book and followed along as Sam came around to the idea? Pea and ginger puree, fried egg, ginger scallion oil, and roasted pork belly. I expected more green, as per the illustrations in the children’s book. Although did appreciate the dish for what it was. I am a fan of peas in any application, so enjoyed the creamy and freshness of the purée here. It balanced out the heavier pork belly. Although the dish felt like it was missing a base. Maybe some toast to sandwich everything?
The Confit Duck came with a scallion pancake, fried egg, ginger scallion oil, and maple. The duck and pancake combined were a little oily, the pea purée above would have been perfect here. Where this dish too had a heavy protein, and the base I missed above, it now lacked a fresh element to help wash in between bites. I would have liked to see these two dishes combined with your choice of protein between pork or duck, and maybe the option to double down with both and two pancakes. The pancake was my favourite part of the dish, although it was greasy and could have used more salt for my tastes.
I liked the Eggs Benny on steam bun as it delivered on what I expected from eggs Benedict, while offering a different take. This is the Szechuan confit duck version, but there is also a vegan option made with sautéed garlic oil gai lan in a black bean hollandaise with a soy and lime slaw. The bun was soft and spongy and the eggs perfectly poached. Although, as a deep push into fusion, I would have liked the egg to be a salted duck one and the bun deep fried (like the onesyou get with condense milk as a dip), to really vary from the other greasy meat and egg options above and below.
What was most surprising was how much we liked the slaw. It was great at adding freshness and tang, despite its off colouring look. Chinese five spice and heavy cream made it one of a kind. I do suggest not bypassing this one. We would finish both this and the portion we got with the brunch sandwich below.
We were going pass it, but the Char Siu Breakfast Sando came highly recommended by our server. Char siu roasted pork, fried egg, Sriracha mayo, scallion, crunchy onion, and pickled cucumber. This makes for a solid hangover helper: greasy and comforting. There was a thick sweet char on the BBQ meat, and gets messy with the runny egg. I wanted more cucumber in this and maybe to have it pickled for a banh mi feel. The slaw is best on the side, as an extra bite or one in between as a palate refresher.
For those who like their brunch sweets, you have to try the Hong Kong French toast, also great for peanut butter lovers. Peanut butter stuffed French toast, creme anglaise, whipped cream, and pistachio biscotti. The peanuts in the butter tasted roasted, a similar yet different nuttiness than that of the pistachio sprinkle. It wasn’t too sweet dispute the bread soaking up all the dripping, like a sponge. It comes out of the kitchen so fast that parts are still crispy, so eat quick, and enjoy it with all this creamy sumptuousness.
And what is an Asian brunch concept without some sort of dumpling? Sadly they were sold out of the XLB so we tried the two following instead.
Black sheep minced lamb dumplings in a black vinegar satay. This one was so tasty with plenty of depth in the seasonings. Bold flavours behind a perfectly prepared shell, with a spice and kick like no other.
The Cheeky was named after the tender beef cheeks and carrots it was stuffed with. In comparison, this one was mild and needed more salt, or at least a dip.
In conclusion this was one of the most sumptuous brunches I have ever had. Where rich and fatty meats meets gooey and runny eggs at the intersection of yum and fun. And where else can find an Asian fusion brunch in the city that offers mimosas from a cart and panda bear tiki mugs?
Cold Tea Restaurant
1193 Granville St, Vancouver, BC V6Z 1M1
(604) 423-2653
coldtearestaurant.com
