Tonight we were finally at Din Tai Fung, affectionately known as DTF in short form. Since they opened, they have been been fully booked inside and on their patio.
For those unfamiliar with the brand and the fanfare that it comes with, thanks to the Michelin star awarded to their original location in Taiwan, they have since grown into an international chain. They are well known for their Xiao Long Baos, and many consider they as the ones who put this ethnic dish on the map.
Now fans of the Michelin rating guide can get both a taste of travel and these award winning dumplings locally. I have been to their Seattle location so am already familiar with their quality of cuisine, so was curious to see how they do with Canadian ingredients and Canadian customers tonight.
Located on a second floor walk up of the Shangri-La Hotel property, I didn’t realize there was a space for restaurant here, or what held the arena before. This is especially given how spacious things are and how well the room opens up with bar and separate dining nooks. The decor matches and is befitting of the luxury of Shangri-La. Modern finishings with oriental touches. Chinese-style wooden room separators, Asian textiles and prints; there is even a bonsai tree in the middle of the main dining room.
And as expected from any restaurant that features XLB, there is a window where you can watch them being made. From the dough being rolled to the perfectly formed puck for filling being pinched within it. They are so popular that they employ a legion of chef in their full uniform whites to prepare these. Trays being fully loaded and ready for steaming in large batches. Watching this before our meal, I did not realize they had a variety of XLB flavours, including two dessert options.
The night began with a reception at the bar, where guests were greeted with a pear lychee martini adorned with an orchid for garnish. Sweet and tropical, like the classic.
They were also mixing and serving their DTF Old Fashioned made with their own house made oolong syrup that sweetens the oolong tea and whisky from Taiwan.
DTF is less known for their bar program and have a certain mandate they have to stick to, due to it being one location of the brand as a whole. Which is a shame given their location downtown, plus their neighbouring competition that would have customers venturing into the area for late night snacks and some bespoke cocktails or top shelf spirits.
They are however known for their milk teas and bubble teas and we were able to try a couple. The classic milk tea with pearls and a fresh orange green tea. Fun and refreshing, they better suited the meal to come than the standalone cocktails, or the wines that overpowered.
As we drank we mingled and took advantage of their activations for this media night. This included professional head shots and personalized chopsticks.
When time we were asked to take a seat and hear a speech from the third generation son of the original owner. He address their continued family business and the hope he has for this, their newest location.
As for the food, it was a curated assembly of their best and most popular dishes, served up family style.
The cucumbers in their popular Cucumber Salad were labour of love. I marveled at how something so simple ended up being my favourite dish of night. Elegant in its segments, this was a refreshing, chilled start to open the appetite with.
We then moved onto something a lot more rich in the Sweet & Sour Pork Baby Back Ribs. Each tender to pry lean meat from bone. The flavour sweet to start and vinegary on the forefront. We had them as is, but I couldn’t help but long for a starch to go with it.
We transitioned to main courses with a couple of rounds of dumplings in between. Starting with their Vegan Dumplings, dyed green and stuffed with mushrooms. Each resembled a leaf with a soft chew from the perfect texture.
The Chicken Xiao Long Bao was thin like chicken broth ramen. Both a lighter option, but you miss the fattiness of pork. I leaned on the classic vinegar soy sauce and ordered an additional side of hot sauce to add more punchiness to it.
For the dip there are directions and jugs of vinegar and soy sauce on each table. Alongside instructions on how to best enjoy your XLBs, they recommend a 3:1 ratio of vinegar to soy sauce. We obliged, and I learned I rather a more even 2:1.
As expected, I enjoyed the Kurobuta Pork Xiao Long Bao more, as it had more fat and flavour. Although the skin and filling felt separate and not cohesive. Two separate pieces instead of a whole with the gushing of soup into mouth when you bite down. They were however, the cleanliest and healthiest version of any XLB I have ever had. Clearly made with fresh and quality ingredients that you can taste.
I found this a nice option for a light snack, and has its time and place. Although at the same time I did miss a gristly and fatty bao. This felt a little too industrial with the precisely packed pucks of meat folded into their doughy shells too commercial. However, according to those who have been to the original location, this is pretty similar to what you get in Taiwan.
We got a stunning presentation from the Sticky Rice w/ Pork & Mushroom Shao Mai. But sadly my eyes ate more satisfactory than my mouth. This was carbs on carbs, and never my favourite at any restaurant. I was left longing for more of the pork and mushrooms that I didn’t get. A main like protein to help carry the rice, whereas the filler was the star here. A thicker oyster based brown sauce would have been nice as a dip, to help with some interest.
The chicken in the Chicken Spicy Wontons was a lot more fragrant here, accented by the spices, chilli, and aromatic greens. Smothered in a lovely silken wrapper.
I am not a fan of leafy greens due to their wilted leaves, so I took my table mates’ word that the Boy Choy w/ Scallion-Infused Oil was a nice fresh side. It has a subtle flavour with soft, yet firm texture.
In contrast was the Taiwanese Cabbage with Garlic. These were crunchy barely greens useful in helping to cleanse the palate. I just could have used more garlic chips, we only found a total of four in the mound, and in my opinion, they were the best part of the dish.
For something more substantial, look to the Vegan Noodles with Sesame Sauce. This was the most flavourful out of everything we tried. So saucy and slurp worthy. I wished I saved some of the dumplings above to have with this, as a main to this side.
After the cucumber, my second favourite of the dishes we tried was the Pork Chop Fries Rice. The rice was perfectly crisp and the pork evenly breaded and chewy, but soft . A full meal in its one serving, I would order this again.
And for dessert there were more dumplings. I don’t know any other restaurant that does a sweet XLB. Although they were not soupy per se, more creamy like “lava” in a chocolate cake.
The Chocolate & Mochi Xiao Long Bao is served with a salted cream dip, the same that is available as a topping in their milk teas. It contrasted the sweetness of the dense chocolate well. I liked that it had its own dip like savoury XLB does.
Although the Black Sesame Xiao Long Bao didn’t really need it. It was already so flavourful, packed full of an oozey sesame filling. I just found the wrapper a little thick for such a delicate flavour. Although troublesome to their process, it would have been nice to have a more crepe-like wrapping for the sweet ones to have them as their own thing.
It short, between the settling, the service, and the cuisine; there is no doubt in my that they are deserving of all their acclaim and achievements. Finer Chinese dining, but still on the approachable and casual side. Worth checking out to see for yourself, what the buzz is all about.
Din Tai Fung 鼎泰豐
1132 Alberni St Suite 200, Vancouver, BC V6E 1A5
(778) 508-6638
dtf.com
