Today we were at the Hilton Downtown Vancouver, to have lunch at their lobby restaurant Hendricks. Ironically, both are actually on the second floor.
After climbing a spiralling flight of stairs we reaches the lobby with hotel check-in on one end and the bar and bistro on the opposite.
The restaurant is named after the American musician, with a black and white photograph of James Marshall “Jimi” Hendrix hanging above the fireplace. This is right under the quote “love is my drug in neon”. Although Hendricks the restaurant is spelled differently, as a nod to old school style cocktail lounges and restaurants.
The large windows and bright natural light take away from the vibe of a moody bar, but in exchange you get a one of kind view, not visible from anywhere else in the city.
A seat here offers you a historic look at the Vancouver Central Library, which is the closest thing I am going to get to a Greek Coliseum anytime soon.
Here, we started our afternoon with a couple of drinks. I got The Voodoo Child for the musical nod. El Jimador Tequila, Triple Sec, lemon juice, yuzu syrup, jalapeño, blackberries, and sage. I appreciated the variety of characteristics they built into this cocktail with spicy, sweet, fruity, and herbal notes in the mix.
My guest got the more classic Espresso Martini for her mid-day pick up. Finlandia Vodka, Kahlua Coffee Liqueur, Crème de Cacao, espresso, and espresso beans.
For food we started with some appetizers to share, and honestly I didn’t find them all that exciting. The reality is when dining at any hotel restaurant, the menu and cuisine is centred around their dominant demographic, the hotel guests who are more likely to stop by after check-in. Not to mention, as an international chain the recipes and ingredients have to be cleared by a hierarchy of corporate figures. The result is decent food curated to please as many palates as possible, and not ruffle any feathers in doing so. So with that in mind, what we had checked all the boxes as decent food, but not a destination for it or the reason to visit.
The view and vibe of the bar would be what I would recommend and why I would return. If you are looking to eat, I would recommend sticking with the mains, more on that below.
The Calamari is buttermilk marinated squid rings and tentacles, cucumber-mint tzatziki, grilled lemon, pickled onions, bell pepper, and jalapeño peppers. I liked that there were other battered textures in the mix, and that the jalapeños were like surprise spice bombs. I could have used meatier slices of squid for my tastes, and a crispier breading that actually adhered to the pieces.
The Crab Cakes were disappointingly dry. The avocado puree could only do some much to inject some moisture into each puck, but I didn’t find it all that complimentary to the sweet crab meat. It didn’t highlight the seafood. I would have liked a more traditional tangy and creamy tartare-like sauce instead. I did like the contrast that the pickled onions and sweet drop peppers provided, but couldn’t make out any of the passion fruit gastrique that was also listed on the menu.
Another musical menu nod was the “Take These Broken Wings”. I wish the whole menu had such whimsical names, which would have made the whole menu more cohesive, and more congruent to the barely their theme.
This was one pound of Fraser Valley chicken wings in your choice of Nashville, BBQ, salt and pepper, or hot. We ordered the BBQ, and I liked how the wings were thoroughly drenched in this sticky, lick your finger clean sensation. A tasty bite, but flat in tone. The included dip on the side would have helped to create contrast and interest, but I didn’t find it complimentary to the wings or even with the vegetable sticks side. The sauce was like a watery, spiced cream that felt like an attempt at ranch dressing, but without tang or body.
I thought their meaty entrees a good deal. $39-40 for a classically done pork chop or steak. Neither of which were luxury cuts, but both hit the spot for heartier portions of red meat.
The Signature Grilled Pork Chop was a tomahawk served with a spicy peach compote, mashed potatoes, and coleslaw. The char on the meat was what flavoured it, while still allowing the sides to add their influence. I liked the twist of using peaches instead of apple sauce for sweetness. This was a fulsome plate that I would be satisfied to have as dinner.
However, between the two, the Steak Frites gets my vote. A 7-ounce Certified Angus Beef NY steak in a peppercorn sauce. Well prepared with a pink centre, I could have used more pepperiness in the sauce for my tastes. Although, it was the fries that stole the show. They looked and tasted like they were double fried in tallow, given their extra golden brown crunch and meaty flavour.
Originally a burger didn’t cross our minds, but could not, not order it given how much the Hilton Hotel’s General Manager said it was his favourite thing on the menu and that its creation was influenced by Chef Will Lew. Chef Will is one of my favourite Vancouver chefs and if given the chance, I will always eat his food. I did not regret having this burger and it was my favourite thing that we had during this visit.
Hendricks Wagyu Smash Burger. The hand-formed Wagyu beef patties were the best part. Two patties separated by American cheese, all topped with lettuce, tomato, crispy onion, bacon, and their tangy burger sauce; all smashed in between a brioche bun. A classically done and delicious burger that hit the spot. Served with fries for a familiar pairing. No complaints. I would come back just for the burger.
In closing, this is a spot for a unique look at the city, a casual bar to grab a drink at, and a solid option for a quality smash burger in the area.
Hendricks Resto-Lounge
433 Robson St, Vancouver, BC V6B 6L9
(604) 647-2521
hendricksrestaurant.com
