Our second time back to House of Dawn was for yet another one of their summer features, this time it more in-line with what they are craving a name for themselves in: as a steakhouse in Richmond proper.
I was intrigued by this Steak Masterclass, having never heard of another restaurant offering such a class. One of the goals of this class was to learn what we like, to be able to order it again here, or at any other steak house. This also simultaneously showcased House of Dawn as a destination and institution for world class beef.
Every summer Sunday at 2pm, their Executive Chef James Yang will personally guide guests through a steak tasting. Think wine tasting, but with beef. This is an immersive culinary experience custom designed for those who are passionate about premium beef and steak culture, or for anyone wanting to learn what goes into beef farming and why we pay as much as we do for it.
Classes with be held for a minimum of 10 guests and a maximum of 15, at $128 per person plus tax and gratuity. Each Beef Masterclass includes a non-alcoholic drink, fresh fruit, steak tasting sides, sauces, and a steak tasting menu that is equivalent to 8-10oz of meat. We tried Striploin and Ribeye from US, Canada, Australia, and Japan; focusing on Wagyu beef, premium Angus, and the best of the best from each country.
With a generous side of butter soaked mashed potatoes and asparagus there is more than enough food to feed for a meal. Each piece is shuttled out and served as soon as it is cooked. You are then advised to eat as soon as it is served for the optimal taste and temperature.
Our workshop started with a discussion on beef and what makes each cut we would try so special, with an open question and answer forum.
Wagyu is all the rage in recent and it was great to be able to learn more about why so, here today. It originated from Japan and translates to Japanese cow. So popular that other countries have adopted their own practices and cultivated their own Wagyu. Some sticking to the blue print, others making it their own.
The word “Wagyu” comes from “wa” meaning peace, balance, tranquility, nothing flashy, or aggressive. This tends to refer to most of Japanese in culture. “Gyu” means cow and together this is “Japanese cow. Wagyu is widely known for its buttery rich and tender texture with unbeatable fat content. The practice of Wagyu farming can be applied to any species of cow. Currently the Miyazaki prefecture is beloved for their Wagyu, even dethroning Kobe as Japan’s favourite steak. In the future we can expect other such prefectures creating their own Wagyu distinction. Like wine, beef can vary by the terroir, terrain, climate, and soil they are raised in and around.
Japanese Wagyu is raised on specialized farms following a curated program meant to emphasize the best parts with selective breeding and an stress-free environment. They work to breeds cows with richness, sweetness, and exceptional marbling. This art is one that the Japanese take pride in.
Australia is physically close to Japan so has adopted this philosophy on their own farms, put towards their own local cattle, to best highlight their Australian beef.
In Canada our cattle are raised 5-8 months on grass then finished 200 days with grain and add-ins like potato, given their abundance in PEI. Potato is pure starch transformed into pure energy which gains the beef its marble and fat.
When you see Triple A, this refers to the marbling percentage. The cattle are fattened during the finishing period for a higher level of marbling. Adding corn to their diets adds sweetness to the meat.
Australia takes this to another level by finishing their cows on chocolate and gummies. Their results have seen them crowned as the champion of beef for 3-4 years. This also stems from the believe that the happier the cows the tastier their meat. Stress releases cortisol which spikes with adrenaline, this creates high lactic acid with the cow, which ultimately denatures and cooks the meat. Therefore Canada insures that its beef is dispatched quickly as possible for optimal food consuming results.
Black Angus is the number one most produced beef in North America. They are genetically engineered and the most cost efficient. These cattle are selectively bread for the most beefy flavour, and they grow quick with good marbling. Angus steaks are known for their beefy and robust flavour. They have a nice bite, are not dry, and possess superior marbling. Australia also has a black angus program.
As for the cuts: striplion or ribeye, it is about preference and what the individual likes. Ribeye has the most flavour between the two. This is thanks to its additional fat, richness, and moisture. All together this makes it taste amazing. Our Chef lecturer recommended to have this prepared to medium, as we don’t want to chew on any fat, blue. We want the cooking temperature high enough so that the fat can render and the meaty fibres break down to juicy.
Striploin is the laziest cut with the smallest fibres. Here, it is recommended that you have it as blue and rare as possible. This is typically what carpaccio is sliced from.
Our event time began with our choice of non-alcoholic juices. The Strawberry Sangria was fresh Strawberry puree, Orange juice, Lime, and Soda. Dragon Bubbles featured their in-house made dragon syrup mixed with Lime and Soda. The two above were the most popular two with no one ordering the Rose Empress which was Rose syrup and Lemonade with a splash of Soda. I do not find florals a complimentary match with red meat either.
As fun and as playful as these drinks were they didn’t compliment the meal. Our steak and sides were so rich and these candy mocktails were far too sweet. At most they served as a palate refresher. I would advise spending extra and getting a big bold red to help cut into the richness of the meat and the butter drenched vegetables. You can also upgrade to an alcoholic drink for an extra $5 more.
During the actual tasting portion we were recommend to try each steak and rate how much you enjoyed it out of 10. The following are the Striploin end Ribeyes we sampled, organized by country, in the order we had them.
Starting with Canada, our Striploin is Atlantic Beef Prime Grade from Prince Edward Island. This striploin is grass-fed and potato finished. I found the meat tough and fibrous. Although it ends buttery with a lovely crispy char from the cooked fat and heavy salting.
The Canadian Ribeye was from Brant Lake Farm and is at a Gold Grade. It is grain finished for a minimum of 200 days in Alberta. This ribeye offers exceptional marbling, rich beefy flavour and a long, satisfying finish. It was fatty and lush, my piece was actually a little too gristly, so that I couldn’t finish. However, this was definitely a flavour and texture I was well versed in and enjoyed.
From USA the Striploin is Creekstone All Natural and Series Prime Grade. This is Premium Black Angus from Kansas, grain-fed and corn-finished for superior marbling and a juicy, robust flavour with classic steakhouse character. I liked this one the least as I found the meat especially lean and ashy as a result. I did note the hints of sweetness from the corn, this led to its unique character that was almost metallic.
The USA Ribeye was Gold Plus Grade from Snake River Farms. It is grain-finished for 500 days in Idaho. Beefy, this is the type of steak that I could get from any grocers. I didn’t see any refinement from this.
The Striploin from Australia was a Black Market Angus MB5+, sourced from New South Wales. It is grain-finished for a minimum of 270 days. I enjoyed the chew of its firm cartilage ends, but got a similarly ashiness as above. Here, the House of Dawn house gravy was helpful to mask the parts I didn’t like. The sauce was Asian inspired: a mix of soy, oyster sauce, hoisin sauce, and Indian spices.
I liked the Australian Ribeye the most. Mayura Station Signature Series MB9+ from the Limestone Coast. It is a fullblood Wagyu with over 300 days of grain finishing. I found it the perfect balance of fatty and lean meat. Still exceptionally rich, silky, and flavourful but with intense marbling that can be much if eaten in excess. I thought this piece held the char well, with great character on its own. This is the one I would order at any steakhouse.
And our masterclass ended with the highly anticipated Japanese steaks. The Striploin was F1 Crossbred Wagyu BMS10+ from Hokkaido. It is a cross between 50% Kuroge and 50% Angus. It is grain-finished doubled the amount of any cow above, at over 650 days. The result was an incredibly tender cut with a perfect balance of umami, sweetness, and richness. I found this not comparable to any of the ribeyes above, uniquely clean and elegant in the mouth. It definitely stood out in mouthfeel.
I actually found the Ribeye a little much. KOBE GYU Grade A5 BMS12, certified Kobe beef from Japan, representing the highest standard of marbling, aroma and flavour. It was buttery, luxurious and unforgettable. I don’t think I could have or wanted more than a couple of bites. It was so heavy that here I finally dug into the starchy potatoes and crispy greens to help break all this fatty meat apart.
In closing this was a one of a kind experience and one that I can truly recommend. I loved every bite and learned so much. And at $128 this was a great way to try all these cuts that would be $100 plus for a minimum number of ounces.
House of Dawn Steakhouse
130-8171 Ackroyd Rd, Richmond, BC, V6X 3J9
(604) 284-5038
houseofdawn.ca
