The long standing, classically French restaurant is back, and I got to hear the story why from the owner, Chef Hervé Martin himself.
Last April Chef Hervé had a heart attack and was forced to face his reality and mortality. So when a former client came in and offered to buy the restaurant in May, he considered it. He approved the concept of a Japanese restaurant with French influence, and thought the money and proposal were a good offer and fair. He said yes by June and was anticipating handing over the restaurant’s keys by July/August.
However, the deal fell through as of September 20th, 2024 and the buyer walked away, not honouring his word. Hervé was shocked by the action of his former client and friend, one that he has served dutifully for years. So the restaurant remained closed as he considered what the next step should be.
It was then he decided to reopen The French Table, as is, figuring he still has a few good years in him. It is still classic French, like how it was. Chef Hervé Martin is not trying to be trendy with modern influences or fusion flavours. The goal has always been and will continue to be bringing regional French flavours to the table. Recreating each dish exactly like how it would be if visiting that region in France. Boeuf Bourguignon from Burgundy, Bouillabaisse from Provence, and Cassoulet from Languedoc; to name a few. Each dish and each component made from scratch with homemade sauces.
We were invited to help spread the word that they are opened again. Hervé knows they were popular once and believes that they still have the winning recipe. So just needs to re-educate their dedicated customers and those looking for authentic French cuisine that they are back.
We would be given scaled down portions of their dishes, exactly how they prepare them for their clients; to be able to try more. The photos are taken of the actual dishes as they will be served to customers. The experience was a little hectic as it became a free for all buffet between photo taking and grabbing bites from full plates. Chaos ensued as we bum rushed the small bar and had to fumble in between the closely packed tables of our sectioned off seating area.
Marinated salmon with lime juice, baby dill, extra virgin oil, crème fraiche, and crostini. This was all about the quality lush salmon slices that melted. A little lean as is, it needed a base.
Presented like a flower on the plate, we got our taste as salmon gravlax. I have never been a fan of the dry and gritty texture of rye bread. Especially as it deters from the fragrant creaminess of the salmon.
The Duck terrine with onion marmalade, pickled gherkins, pearl onions, and grainy mustard is available as an appetizer with a couple of slices on the plate, or as part of their charcuterie platter. We had it as is and I found it had a hammy quality to it, especially alongside the pickles. Not a dish I enjoyed as is.
The Escargot is prepared traditionally with garlic butter, and that is what makes all the difference. This is a 150 year old recipe from Hervé‘s great grandfather, the same one he has been using his entire culinary career. So much so that the kitchen is trained to make it to the exact gram of salt.
Marinated beet and pickled fennel salad with goat cheese, spicy maple nut crust, arugula, and citrus vinaigrette. This one was interesting with the breading of the goat cheese. Although given how strong the cheese was I would have liked it with toast instead, to be used as a spread. Here, it over powered the salad and there was a lot more of it than the greens to go around.
The Garlic prawns were pastis flambé with Pernod bitter liqueur, tomato, and shallots. It was garlic and parsley heavy with tones of flavour.
Not much to look at all beige, but it was tasty. Duck confit cassoulet with stewed white beans, duck leg, braised pork, and house made Toulouse sausage. I was impressed, I have never had duck confit this tender. And I typically don’t like the grainy texture of beans, but they were so tasty here that I didn’t mind.
The Bouillabaisse is made with local seasonal fish, scallops, and mussels; topped with croutons for crunch. I liked the fragrant and tangy tomato based broth, I just wanted some bread to soak it up with.
The fries were the highlight of the Moules frites. Mussels, white wine, garlic, and diced tomatoes. Similar to the above there was plenty of the delicious, light and creamy sauce to use as a dip for the crispy fries. My favourite dish of the day, as it demonstrated the epitome of a “classic”.
The Seafood Linguine was a satisfying pasta seasoned with creamy lemon, roasted garlic, and a caper sauce. A good mix of scallops, halibut, shrimp, and mussels.
And for dessert we started with their Chocolate profiterole. A perfect choux pastry filled with vanilla ice cream, and topped with chocolate sauce. This was my favourite one bite as the cream oozed out.
I also really liked their Pear almond tart with whipped cream and mixed berry coulis. A light, mild sweetness with a firm texture that you don’t get with apple.
We also had pears poached in a red wine sauce that I found a clean way to end the meal.
For something more decadent they had a dense Chocolate mousse with whipped cream and roasted almonds.
And for more of a palate washer the lemon tart was a tart and citrusy end, coupled with mixed berry coulis and whipped cream.
In closing, The French Table is back and if your are looking for uncomplicated food that tastes exactly as their descriptions read, this is the restaurant to visit. A taste of France and tradition without the need to travel.
French Table
3916 Main St, Vancouver, BC V5V 3P2
(604) 689-3237
thefrenchtable.ca
