Today I was back at Vancouver airport, but not to fly anywhere. I was one of the first to be able to see the return of the Wonton Mama popup, at Fairmont Vancouver Airport. It was so popular last year that they had to do a part two, but this time bigger, better, and with a few more friends.
Once again, the night was not only about comfort Chinese cuisine, but fundraising for a cause as well. They have once again set up shop at the lobby of the hotel, expanding to the surrounding walls. The latter is in partnership with the Chinese Canadian Museum in Chinatown. This is the CCM: The Gallery Lounge. It is a specially curated cultural space featuring the museum’s greatest hits, a selection of moments from the Museum’s past exhibitions. “It brings together art, historical artifacts, and visual storytelling, offering guests a glimpse into Chinese Canadian history, creativity, and cultural identity, celebrating the stories and experiences that connect generations and communities.” (As per the press release).
During the five week run of this activation, $1 of every order will be donated to the Chinese Canadian Museum. And guests who spend a minimum of $50 will also be eligible for complimentary parking vouchers.
Part diner, part museum, the immersive dining experience invites guests to explore the connections between food, memory, and identity. I was able to get a quick tour from the museum’s operator and curator. She led me from wall to wall, starting with the vintage records recognized for their art and being a capsule into a different time. There were photos of Chinese Canadian immigration showcasing the diversity of Chinese-ness and people coming from more than just China or Hong Kong. The most eye catching piece was the painted work that represented a seat at the table and has already travelled to 6 museums in BC. There were even personal photos from our guest chefs hung. Chef Will’s dad in an apron and both Chef Will and Sharon (aka MAMA) as kids.
Officially opening on Saturday, October 24, 2026, Wonton Mama is retro Hong Kong style street food pop up, but reimagined through a Chinese Canadian lens. Done in the vision of Vancouver celebrity chefs MAMAintheKitchen and Chef Will Lew. They are open for dinner, from Thursday through Sunday, from 4:00 p.m. to 10:00 p.m.
They promise “nostalgia and heritage through hand crafted dumplings and noodles, dim sum favourites, house Chinese BBQ, and snacks to enjoy with Vancouver Chinatown inspired cocktails”. (As taken from the press release).
This is a “collaboration between Fairmont Vancouver Airport and MAMAintheKitchen, and now including Chinese Canadian Museum and Lee’s Donuts, “the pop-up brings together the West Coast’s focus on local, sustainable ingredients with the traditions and authenticity of Hong Kong cuisine, and with special limited-edition merch.”
There is also a special fundraising dinner set up a day before the launch of the official opening. October 23rd is hoping to further raise funds and support for the Chinese Canadian Museum. Wheee $95 a ticket gets you a seat for a 12 course meal.
We saw the return of the authentic, red, lanterns and matching plastic chairs, meant to mimic street eating in Hong Kong. New is the branding that expanded to the MAMA in the Kitchen merch like tee shirts and tote bags. As well as new labels on all four of MAMA’ss signature sauces.
As guests arrived and took in the above exhibit, we enjoyed passed drinks the likes of a traditional milk tea with evaporated milk and a clarified milk tea cocktail with cognac. I was amazed by the latter that tasted like milk tea and it even sits on the tongue like milk tea does, but was clear. This was so easy to drink and complimentary to the meal to come. I could have had ten of these unsuspectingly.
We enjoyed eleven courses staring with the games and familiar Curry Fish Ball made with MAMAintheKitchen curry sauce with coconut cream added to it to thicken it up and add some sweetness to things. This was topped with some crispy, fried vermicelli for crunch. Overall fun to eat with mini skewers.
The Mapo Tofu Hummus and Taro Chips was crazy creative. This was basically hummus made from tofu and topped with soy crumbs, fermented greens, and mala spice. I liked their reimagining of this classic Chinese dish to make it more approachable to the general public, who may not be familiar. The only thing a missing was the texture. It was too runny and saucy for me to immediately think hummus. Thankfully the thicker taro chips helped to carry it, but there was not enough and the dip was too much. It was too salty and too bold so best to use sparingly. This would have been a good dip for friend chicken or even a wrap.
Their Chilli Chicken Wonton is another familiar, fan favourite. Made with MAMA’s pork and chives recipe. Each dumpling is boiled, then topped with toasted sesame and fried shallots. It was on the sweeter side with the soy, but finished spicy with ginger. Both the meat and the wrapper melts, tender.
The Kurobuta Char Siu was their Canadian-take on Chinese style BBQ pork with maple maltose glaze, and ginger scallion jam. This too was sweet, but more intentionally so. It was like many dishes in one, combining familiar sauces and toppings together, like the ginger and scallion sauce that you often have with chicken and the more faint flavour of honey and garlic together that you normally get on pork. I prefer my food savoury in general, and that is especially the case with meat, so I had this with my favourite MAMAintheKitchen shrimp garlic chilli oil. This was not meant to be traditional, but a fun and versatile play.
Typhoon Shelter Calamari is deep fried squid dressed with red chilli, fried garlic, black bean, serrano, and lemon. Typhoon shelter” refers to an iconic Hong Kong style of cooking born in the mid-20th century among boat-dwelling communities. Fishermen cooked with shelf-stable pantry staples, combining heavy heaps of golden garlic, fermented black beans, scallions, and red chili peppers into their dishes.
The plate before us was ashy with all the bits, whereas I wanted a moist bite of squid instead. The flavour was there, even with this clean of a frying.
We really enjoyed the Sweet & Sour Chicken Nuggets with a dip made from pineapples, hawthorne, goji berry, and red dates. This was yet another unexpected and creative twist that utilizes familiar Chinese ingredients in a different way. The nuggets themselves were the best I have had to date. Each round golden browned with a juicy, all meat centre. The sauce was sweet and sour, but not as I know it to be. It was an interesting blend to get this sweetness.
Next came our second round of courses on larger plates. In the order that we had them.
The XO Prawn Ginger Fried Rice with eggs, gai lan, scallions, MAMAintheKitchen curried beef brisket, and featuring her premium XO sauce. This was incredibly oily with its soaking through to the bottom and pooling. I liked the shrimp and found myself reaching for more shrimp garlic chilli oil.
The Smoked Tofu Dan Dan Noodles with saucy with a muddy finish. I found it heavy with the cream that got absorbed into and fatten up all the noodle. I would have liked to have this one with some of the meat and seafood above. As is it felt like the base and needed more toppings.
Our favourite dish of the evening was the MAMA Curry Beef Brisket with potatoes, onions, ginger, chilli, and coriander. It had a tea smoked quality to it and the meat was delicious as is, so tender and flavour-packed. Although I would have still liked some plain steamed rice with it? Bbhhas a way to best soak up some of the excess gravy-sauce.
And our meal ended on MAMA Wonton Noodle Soup with prawns, pork, golden chives, and spot prawn broth. I wish round two started with this like the menu listed it. It was warm and comforting, but muted compared to all the other dishes we had above. It tasted authentic and its smell triggered authentic memory.
Dessert was the most memorable. It was a MAMA and Lee’s Donuts collaboration. Their donuts and MAMA’s own chilli salted egg yolk sauce made into a glaze. Finished with crunchy bits of egg yolk sprinkles. A cakey, sweet donut given hints of savoury goodness from the glaze. This is in my wheel house and it was so good that I licked the plate clean.
I love that this popup is back for a good cause, and that they have not just brought back popular dishes, but put their spin on new ones too. My only gripe is that the stools hurt my bottom. I know they are authentic, but it didn’t make me want to linger long. Much like the entire popup which is only for a limited-time running from October 24 to November 29th, 2026. So be sure to check them out.
Fairmont Vancouver Airport
3111 Grant McConachie Way, Richmond, BC V7B 0A6
604-248-3281
fairmont.com
