Today we were getting a tour of Sole Foods, a non-profit, urban farm with an ennobling cause, right in the heart of Olympic Village.
As taken from their website, “Founded in 2009, Sole Food Street Farms transforms vacant urban land into productive agricultural landscapes”. They since “grown to become one of North America’s largest urban farm social enterprises, producing hyper-local produce sold to the public and donated to community partners”.
“As a social enterprise, they train and employ residents of Vancouver’s Downtown Eastside Neighbourhood who are facing complex barriers to employment. Individuals are given the opportunity to work with living soil, grow fresh food, develop new skills, and spend their days in an environment that supports the healing of body, mind and soul.”
This afternoon we would get to meet these people and hear their stories with a hands on farm tour that included the ability to pick and taste.
Sole Farms once had North America’s largest orchard with plums, figs, and cherries. They have since divided their acres and are looking for a permanent space as the farm in the city.
Our tour included Andrea, Executive Chef/Owner of the Michelin awarded Burdock & Co. She would be accompanying us and then pull inspiration from the tour to prepare a literal farm to table dinner for your group after. Her goal was to bring awareness to the farm and speak to their good works. Not just about sustainability and urban agriculture, growing seasonal produce and provide more green spaces; but their involvement with the community and how they provide long term meaningful work for those in needed.
Approximately 30 individuals are brought on every season with the goal of producing more than they need, to be able to donate it back to the community. The work is ideal for those with barriers to finding employment and are in need of flexible hours. The employees are able to come and go as needed, working once a week, or taking a year off to only be welcomed back with open arms. Sole Farms meets them where they are at, with compassion and a hot meal. There is a job for everyone, like seeding for those who have trouble standing.
Our tour began at their wash and processing area, in shade. This covered area also doubles as their farmer’s market shop, where neighbours and those passing by are invited to shop their fresh produce, footsteps away from where they are grown and harvested. The rest of the produce goes to their West End farmer’s market stall and are supplied to restaurants and caterers like Flourist, Sodexo Live! at BC place, Sheraton Hotel, and Elisa steakhouse.
As we walked and talked we were invited to try various herbs and ripen vegetables, and honestly this is the most greens I have ever eaten in my life. I normally dislike the texture of leafy greens so avoid them, but fresh from the dirt and compost, without washing them first, apparently makes a difference.
We had crisp green beans, tried spicy arugula, saw a potato being pulled from the ground, learned what a cardoon was and that it is from the artichoke family; and discovered that although it is considered a weed, purslane has a lovely citrusy flavour. We learned that it takes 15 years to have a full production of asparagus and that it can only be harvested after 4.
They have pollinators from bee hives courtesy of habitat for humanity. My mind was blown by chocolate mint that tasted exactly as it is name.
And the highlight of our tour was tasting the sungold cherry tomatoes, fresh off the vine. A box of these would also make an appearance during our Burdock & Co. dinner below.
The farm is not organically certified, but does use organic practices like cover crop seed over winter to produce nutrients, which they kill off in summer to become fertilizer. All of the waste and excess of processing is flipped manually. They pride themselves on their compost program sourcing partners who donate wood chips, spent grain, and even coffee grounds, to be able to turn into compost. Each new crop get new compost and it is the life blood of the farm.
From here we grabbed our cars and Ubers and were invited to Burdock & Co. for a special, one of a kind meal prepared by Chef Andrea. She was inspired by the bounty we tried and prepared the following.
This would be my first visit since they have won their Michelin nod and sadly I had to cut it short due to a prior commitment, missing the last three courses.
The 30+ seater restaurant is rustic with wood and brick. Minimal in design to allow the veggie forward menu to speak for itself.
We began our service with a glass of L’Antidote, a “Wine-like” sparkling Gamay from Beaujolais, France. What is special about this is that it uses herbs from their vineyards, giving the bouquet bold roasting herb flavours like sage and rosemary. It reminded me of thanksgiving dinner with stuffing and the acidity of cranberry.
I could not pass on trying Burdock signature cocktail, “Sun Dog”. A mix from the mind of one of my favourite local bartenders, Jeff Savage. It is a chamomile-infused blanco tequila with St. Germain and cherry blossom green tea. The flavours were refined and transformative, however being pre-batched made it flat in the mouth.
Our starting bread was their Summer zucchini loaf with a delicious smoked green pea and mugwort butter. I have never had a tastier loaf for the table bread. It reminded me of banana bread, but savoury.
It was so fluffy and soft with chewy cheesy bits. Plenty of flavour as is, but exemplified by the salted, seasoned butter. I am not shy to admit that I finished what our table could not as a group.
The Crudité was a collection of raw vegetable from Sole Foods. Although simple in premise, each element well prepared with complimentary spices and textures that contrast to embolden. The same crisp green bean we had at Sole; brined, salted and left singular on the plate. A cucumber slice with crème fraîche, pickled shallot, and dill.
Rainbow carrots with a lemon ricotta and a walnut cake crumb. This reminded me of carrot cake. There was a purple radish half with sesame seeds. And the Dungeness crab stuffed squash blossom was everyone’s favourite. A delicious sweet and crispy mouthful.
Tofu with garlic three ways. At the bottom a crunchy Sole Foods turnip with a caramelized garlic clove. At the top, tofu made from garlic; finished with a porcini shoyu, crispy garlic, fresh chives, fresh turnips, garden currants, and oxeye daisy.
The pickled vegetable greatly contrasted the silken tofu that with a nutty quality to it. This was a celebration of textures and flavours.
Sadly my meal ended there and I missed the crudo, duck, and dessert course. I guess that is reason enough to return to Burdock for a proper meal. This was such a great day and a great way to learn more about what goes on to your plate and what goes into getting it there. Truly a meaningful experience and one I am grateful to be able to report on here.
Sole Food Farms
265 W 1st Ave, Vancouver, BC V5Y 1A6
(778) 228-9566
solefoodfarms.com
