Taste the Legacy: Fontanafredda’s Barolo Night of Elegance
This evening we were celebrating Barolo Week at Acquafarina, in collaboration with the renowned Fontanafredda winery. And a were joined by the Roberto Bruno and Fabio Bosio from Fontanafredda, who flown in all the way from Italy for the occasion. Roberto Bruno is the Managing Director/ VP of Sales and Fabio Bosio, the Global Export Manager.
The menu tonight was crafted by Acquafarina’s culinary team, to perfectly compliment Fontanafredda’s finest wine selections. Thus, this was a unique opportunity to explore the rich heritage and flavours of these iconic wines in the company of industry experts.
The evening began with a mingler as we introduced ourselves and made small talk before the commencement of our seated dinner. This we began with our host speaking to the history of the winery. Named and owned by the first king of Italy in 1858, meaning it boasts 170 years of legacy. Fontanafredda is currently the largest continuous estate with organic and sustainable orchards, boasting the largest vineyards of Barolo.
Our wine tasting started with Fontanafredda Langhe Arneis DOCG 2023, Piedmont, Italy. These are grapes that come from the same vineyard where they grow their Barolo grapes. The clay in this soil offers structure, passing on freshness and drinkability to the wine. There were floral notes and a softness in the mouth, along with the essence of spring greens, grass, and pear. I would consider this an everyday drinking wine at $19.99 retail. A white that you sip by a pool and a gentle entry to ready the palate for the bigger wines ahead, as we make our way through shades of white and red.
This was paired with our first course the Insalata Pera E Capra. Roasted pears, greens, goat cheese, and a balsamic dressing. This was a salad as light as the white. Mostly buttery greens I worked my way through the fruit and cheese instead, enjoying the sweet candied nuts for crunch and the salt of the pasty cheese.
Although I did note that the bitterness of the lettuce was cut with the sweetness of the wine. The warm pear also paired well with the pear I tasted in the wine (intentional pun).
Our next wine was the Fontanafredda Timorasso Derthona DOC 2023, Piedmont, Italy. This is a rare and expressive white from the rediscovered Timorasso grape. Apparently the experts say that this is “Hot right now”, exploding recently, making them in high demand. This is an ancient grape with a mere 10 years of history. It almost went extinct, due to it being extremely difficult to grow.
This is a white that is aged like a red with higher acidity and an extensive note. The flavours stay and builds in mouth, which is why it is nick named the “white Barolo”, but without the tannis. It can also be aged for 10-15 years, adding more structure and body. Fontanafredda has sent 250 cases of this across Canada and BC, with Ontario being the largest market with 100. $39.99 a bottle retail. I got warm fruit and honey with the complex aromas of ripe pear and white flower, plus a hint of almond.
Its second course pairing was the Capesante of Hokkaido scallops, for di sale, pink peppercorn, crispy shallots, and mint. The thinly sliced scallop was sweet and crisp with lemon. The dill was fragrant and with it the flavour evolves. The soft gum of the scallop was contrasted by the brittle cracker shards. This was a well conceived dish and the wine with it was bold enough to wash the flavours clean and cleanse bites in between.
Wine number three was the Fontanafredda Gavi di Gavi DOCG 2021, Piedmont, Italy. This is crafted from 100% Cortese grapes. These are the most famous and the most important grapes of the area. Its name means ”gentle” in Italian, referring to its soft flavour in mouth and on the nose. The 2021 release is described as being perfectly in tact. Normally this wine young has mineralogy and fruit. Here, it is older with more body and structure in the mouth, making it a white bottled for aging.
It reminded me of BC Chardonnay with its oily mouthfeel and gasoline-like characteristics. This paralleled the slight bitterness of the green tomatoes in the salad below, and its warming spice volleyed off of the ground pepper. A bottle here would set you back $28.99 retail.
The Seasonal Burrata Salad was made with local seasonal ingredients and burrata di Puglia. There was only 1/5 of a slice of Burrata, and more tomato than cheese. A collection of different tomato variety for a juicy mix. The roasted peach offered a similar sweetness, and was more savoury than caramelized.
Our fourth course took us into the red wines, starting with the Fontanafredda Briccotondo Piemonte Barbera DOC 2023, Piedmont, Italy. Described as an “Entry level wine”, and a good one to understand the value of the winery with. Our host declared that this was their breakfast wine, that they would have alongside bread and salami in the AM. We would have ours with duck breast.
This Barbera contains grapes from three different areas blended into one. This was fresh and fruity with little body. An approachable wine for a regular night, an every day bottle with great value at $19.99. Our winery reps admitted that they don’t make any money from this one and it is meant to lure customers into their portfolio and win them over. Long, gentle, and structured make up Fontanafredda‘s trademark characteristics.
Roasted duck breast, root vegetables millefoglie, wild berry jus, butternut squash, and mascarpone. The duck was prepared perfectly. The wine’s deep ruby bursts of blackberry, plum, and sweet spices, accented by a peppery edge was the ideal seasoning and sauce profile to this.
Course number five was the Fontanafredda Barolo Serralunga d’Alba DOCG 2019, Piedmont, Italy. At $49.99 this was named the most important wine of their winey, aptly named the “Wine of the king” or “king of the wines”. This was reference to their royal history. The wine is tougher with higher acidity, more aggressive tannis, and a fuller body due to the heavy clay of the region. I got some tart funk with cherry and sour plum. This was the type of wine that punches you in the face, which was helpful in cutting into the richness of the pasta.
Rotolo Ai Funghi with wild mushrooms, porcini, ricotta stuffed pasta, and sage butter. This was sage heavy on the forefront with the lingering musk of parmesan. The pasty and grainy filling was in high contrast to the luscious whole noodle strands. I found it a lot as is and in need of the acidity and fruit that the wine provided.
The Fontanafredda Barolo Platinum Collection DOCG 2021, Piedmont, Italy was also an expression of Nebbiolo like above, but from Fontanafredda’s historic vineyards, at a different appellation. It was the more approachable of the two and the more budget friendly at $42.99 a bottle retail. Just open it and it is ready to drink. It was described as a “Polite wine” for beginners, just trying Barolo for the first time. Its brightness and additional fruit on the nose help to tone the richer darker aromas of dried rose, black cherry, liquorice, and earthy truffle.
This was paired with Filetto Al Pepe Verde for our 6th course. Premium beef tenderloin, crispy potatoes and a green peppercorn sauce. There was nothing I did not like about the dish. The steak was terrific, its firmer chew countered the delicate layers of the potato, and the juicy red brought them both together cohesively.
If the king and his brother is what we had above, this is the “Queen of the wines”. And as in chess the queen’s value is greater at $91.99 for a retail bottle. We ended here at the boldest of their collection. There were aromas of red berries, violet, and subtle spice, underpinned by earthy notes. It is aged for a year less for less of an oak influence. Thus making it softer and more breathable. This our host declared as the “wine of the night”.
As a stand alone number, no dessert can touch it, so its final course pairing was a selection of European Cheeses and dark Chocolate. Where I was expecting more ripe, pungent, and exotic cheeses I got familiar mild ones that I did not find all that complementary or contrasting to the wine. They did not better highlight one or the other. Here, I enjoyed by wine for my dessert.
In short, this was such a lovely way to get better acquainted with Fontanafredda and their portfolio. Comparing, contrasting, and seeing how they compliment one another and this curated meal from a fine dining establishment. This was an evening that was no short of spectacular.
Acquafarina
425 W Georgia St, Vancouver, BC V6B 5A1, Canada
+1 604-558-3099
acquafarina.com
