This was an unexpected event surrounding the lesser known, leafy vegetable radicchio. “Bold Flavours: A Radicchio Pop-up Event” was so well received last year that they decided to repeat it again for 2025.
For those familiar with “Feast of Fields” and have attended any event hosted by “Farm Folk City Folk”, this pop-up offers a similar experience; but in a smaller, more intimate setting. Hosted by Chef Andrea Carlson of the Michelin-starred Burdock & Co, she is joined by 5 other local BC chefs representing their respective restaurants. This 90-minute tasting was created to highlight radicchio as a local crop, further exploring fresh, seasonal ways to prepare it.
For those unfamiliar with radicchio, it is vibrant green that thrives in our cool climate and grows late into the season. I was surprised to learn that there are so many different varieties, not just the purple-burgundy colour that I am most familiar with.
There was a collection of it at a table with colours that included shades of green, varying pinks, and some even had speckles. They differed on the size of leaf and thickness of stem, one even looked like fingers from a stalk. The farmers who grew and harvested them were also on hand, available to converse with and ask any questions too.
Tickets for this one night only event ranged from $60 – $70 with one of 3 different tasting times to choose from. Guests had their entry tickets scanned at the door and each attendee was given a glass for wine and a souvenir Feast of Fields branded cedar tasting plank ($10 value) to take home. This board was meant to be used as an eating surface and a resting place for your small bites and dishes. The event itself was standing room only and the restaurant’s tables were converted to tasting stations. Each ticket holder got six additional tickets, one for each of the stations to be redeemed and exchanged for the corresponding taster plate. There is no particular order you had to travel in, but everyone automatically saved the dessert station for the last, as they snaked around the room.
I appreciated the regularly romantic mood lighting of Burdock & Co., however, tonight it made it difficult to see what was before you and to read the description of each dish that you were having. You also could not appreciate the colour that the radicchio adds to a plate. Luckily their chefs were more than happy to share and walk you through their concepts.
Admittedly, I’m not a fan of wilted greens due to its texture. However, I was incredibly impressed by how these Chefs were not only able to mask this, but also the natural bitterness of this winter green.
The following is in the order that we tried them in, starting with our host: Chef Andrea’s radicchio creation, considering it was her restaurant after all.
She generously offered a roll of Treviso radicchio with prosciutto, onion confit, and Kabritt goat cheese; cut into two. It reminded me of a play on dolmades, tender grape leaves wrapped around a savoury filling. She absolutely delivered on the “bold flavours” theme. The strength of the all the chosen ingredients overrode the radicchio, leaving its bitterness as an accent. The two bites were a little on the salty side, so best with some cider to cut into it.
Specifically Victoria’s Sea Cider Farm & Cider House’s Crabapple Cider. They were the only beverage option tonight, offering both alcoholic and non-alcoholic choices. I found the tartness of the apples a wonderful compliment to all the bites to come. Its sweetness also helped to cleanse the palate in between rich bites.
Our second bite was from Araxi in Whistler. It looked like a fresh radicchio wrap cut into two, sitting in a radicchio leaf boat. Assorted radicchio textures, radicchio marmalade, sourdough + walnut crumb, and beet salsa. The chef did well to incorporate a wide collection of textures from the crispy raw radicchio to the crunchy topping. I noted the lingering flavour of blue cheese, and I was a fan. This was pungent enough to go toe to toe with the bitterness of the radicchio, where it came out on top.
Next we had three bites in one from COFU, Vancouver’s vegan sushi experts. Radicchio Umaki Roll, COFU’s signature eggplant unagi wrapped in lightly cooked radicchio and finished with fine threads of chilli pepper. Radicchio Kobujime Temari Sushi, which was radicchio cured with kombu, shaped into a temari-style sushi, and topped with a shiraae-inspired tofu cream, and seasoned with yuzu and miso, then finished with gold flakes. This was served on an edible plate of lotus root.
We marvelled at their ability to build something so complex from a single bite. They completely toned down the sharpness of the radicchio, offering it as a more gentle bite. If we were to go back through the line up again, I would want to start here, and work my way to more boldness.
In the kitchen, we had what was essentially a radicchio pinwheel. Roulade of radicchio with confit orange, Fraser Valley hazelnuts, fonduta, and cured yolk by Bar Corso. Here the radicchio was the star of the dish and not hidden, you ate it as a swirl of vegetables, intermingled with crunchy bits, all generously topped with a lush cream sauce. The sauce is what made the dish, commanding your attention with enough flavour to ignore all else.
The next station was from Autostrada, well known for their pastas, and the visiting chef had a creative one prepared for us this evening. It consisted of layers of ingredients and compounding flavours offering up a combination unlike any other. Spaghetti in salsa con Tardivo. Here, he taught us about the truffle of the sea, which is compressed fish roe that was shaved over the dish, adding an umami essence to it. The radicchio was thrown in later, keeping most of its structure as it was stirred into the tangy noodles over heat.
I appreciated how this and most of the dishes were assembled on the spot, with the pasta being done over the stove and tossed for a good show.
My favourite of all the radicchio dishes were the dessert, which ironically had the least amount of radicchio, as far as I could tell. Two completely different bites by Kintoki Sweets served on delicate banana leaves.
One was a sticky mochi that was quick to warm with the heat of your fingers, and you then had to scrape them off. Finished with freshly grated yuzu zest before serving. Sendai-style yubeshi mochi with island yuzu and sweet Treviso radicchio miso. Inside the yellow mochi ball was a mix of peanuts and chopped up bits of radicchio. Familiar, yet different I wish I could have gone back for seconds.
The Black sesame kingvokukan with mitarashi sauce and Rossa di Verona radicchio was was my favourite between the two. It was a wonderful palate refresher with fragrant black sesame. It was drizzled over with the miso sauce and topped with a single leaf of radicchio before serving. I enjoyed the colour contrast of deep black with fuchsia from the featured ingredient. The miso drizzle is what sweetened the bite and flavoured it, making it memorable with its umami notes that contrasted the sugars of the gelatine.
This was a wonderful showcase of talent and creativity. An event in support of Farm Folks City Folk, and the year long fundraising initiatives they host to support local farms. Ticket sales went towards this cause and they are also selling raffle tickets for their Fall Draw. Prizes include six different food focus trips with accommodations and elevated dining experiences.
Visit the link to learn more about what they do and the next event they will be hosting.
https://farmfolkcityfolk.rafflenexus.com/
