Tonight we were at the acclaimed Hawksworth restaurant, in Hotel Georgia. Invited down to try their new menu described in their press release as a “refined evolution that honours everything you love about Hawksworth, while embracing how people want to dine today.”
It promises to continue being grounded in timeless favourites like their “signature Hawksworth Classic Burger and Classic Cioppino”, but the new menu also brings “bold new additions”. “From fresh oysters and seafood towers to seasonal, vegetable-forward plates, each dish is thoughtfully designed to be shared or enjoyed solo—giving you more ways to enjoy your Hawksworth dining experience”.
We started with a round of sparkling, followed by some of their signature cocktails.
The Hibiscus Whisper is strawberry wallflower gin, woods amaro, lime leaf liqueur, hibiscus strawberry, and lemon.
The Pink Elephant: absolut vodka, odd society cassis, lemon, egg white, rose, and raspberry.
The Rising Sun is suntory toki whisky, sesame infused amaro, plum sake, drambuie, yuzu, and ginger.
The classic Hotel Georgia is always a popular one with tanqueray gin, orgeat, lemon, orange blossom water, and egg white.
I went for the kitsch with their Oh Henry!, named after the chocolate bar they hoped to immolate in liquid form. Peanut infused bearface whiskey, amaro montenegro, crème de cacao, and caramel. I expected it creamy, but the cocktail came clear. It was Amaro forward on the nose, with after notes of peanut from the whisky, followed by wisps of chocolate. It was a fun take, and great for those who like peanut butter, much like I do.
For food we started with their two tier Hawksworth Tower. A collection of seafood on ice. Freshly shucked oysters, mussels, Argentinan prawns, Dungeness crab, tuna crudo, ceviche, and 1/2 nova scotia lobster for group sharing.
The mussels were sweet. The oyster tangy in the already dressed mignonette. I wanted some crackers to have as a base for the loose seafood dips. The lobster was unseasoned and could have used a butter or drizzle all its own. The endive felt out of place amongst the sweeter seafood with its bitter taste and watery finish.
The following dishes were shared five ways, which meant we often get a taste or two, so please take this review with a grain of salt. Sometimes first impressions change and flavours come through as the meal progresses.
Fremantle Albacore Tuna with fratori extra virgin olive oil, and yuzu kosho. I liked that the dish came with chopstick to elevate the experience and have it standing out. A gentle fish with heavy spices topping this for some kick.
The Spring Salmon Gavlax was beet cured and accompanied by avocado and horseradish. We all liked the bold colour and the presentation. It reminded me of a tropical, chunky ceviche and ate light like a salad. I found that the orange really complimented the dish and offered its sweet citrus to best highlight the soft pillowy fish.
Speaking of pillowy and soft, the Burrata di Puglia was a whole ball over slow cooked vinegar peppers, served with grilled focaccia. The Burrata was amazing as is over the bread. I found that the tangy tomato and fragrant peppers overpowered the cheese, and ate them like a tapenade over the focaccia instead.
The focaccia was the highlight above, so we were all happy to have more served as is in their Fresh Housemade Focaccia offering. This loaf was topped with sun-dried tomato, green olive, and parmesan. It was delicious as is much like the Truffle Fries.
The Truffle Fries were a lovely side to enjoy as is with parmesan and chives. This was a bold profile that served as break in between more distinct flavours. Great when you need a breath of fresh air.
The table raved about the Miso Marinated Haida Gwaii Sablefish garnished with chili threads. The fish was lush and moist, the miso gave the already fattier fish an additional warm, buttery mouthfeel. My only criticism was being made to share this and only getting one bite.
By comparison, the Grilled West Coast Halibut was the less popular option. Halibut in a coconut curry with a cucumber & cilantro salad. The fish depended on the pool of curry for flavour. I did like how it made for a full meal with the bed of julienned veggies acting like noodles, offering the lighter fish, a much needed base to carry it.
Another favourite amongst the table was the Valley Chicken with prawn mousseline, oyster mushroom, and ponzu butter. I did like the crispy skin, but found it overall too salty. I looked to the asparagus side to balance things out here.
Amongst all these mains, we also ordered a few sides as accompaniments.
The Be Organic Green Asparagus was steamed then prepared in extra virgin olive oil. I found them perfectly prepared and a wonderful, neutral side to all the entrees above.
The Roasted Cauliflower had its own character with sultana, sunflower seeds, cilantro, and turmeric. Punchy flavours to conflict everything else more mellow above. I just would have liked the florets crispier, instead of how soggy they came.
I am not a fan of the texture of wilted greens, it is a sensory thing, so passed on the Baby Bok Choy with shallot, chili, and garlic.
As well as the Baby Turnips in a Thai basil & chili dressing.
For red meat we had the Grilled Veal Cutlet topped with fried artichoke, both sitting in a pink peppercorn sauce. I got a slice, but what I had was dry and tough, helped along by the peppery gravy, that I did like. The fried artichoke added another texture, without distracting from the steak or sauce.
Then we couldn’t walk away without trying their Baked Alaska, which is only available during their dinner service. Vanilla ice cream, pineapple sorbet, passionfruit ice cream, and coconut cake. This gave you a show at the table. A flaming dessert where rum is used to help bake and add a char to the sugars. The result, a rugged smokiness to contrast the candy sweetness of this tropical dessert.
The table also shared the Vanilla Crème Brûlée. Hibiscus poached rhubarb, earl grey, blood orange, and puffed amaranth. This was more burnt sugar crust than creamy base. It was on the heavier side and not sweet. The flavour more bitter with notes of similar florals and teas melding together.
In short, a lovely dinner with plenty of familiar family style dishes, done in David Hawksworth’s expertise and style. Classically prepared and timeless.
Hawksworth Restaurant
801 W Georgia St, Vancouver, BC V6C 1P7
(604) 673-7000
hawksworthrestaurant.com
