Today I was back at Le Crocodile for Roanna’s birthday. She liked her first counter a few weeks ago, so much that she wanted to celebrate her birthday here today. This time around we made sure to try all the dishes we didn’t get to and wanted to, the first time around.
But once again we started with champagne as the promotion for 50% off a bottle during lunch time is still running. Our sommelier choose it to well match our meal to come. He described the 100% Chardonnay as one that would bridge the gap between both our light and rich dishes. And that it did. I got stone fruit like apricot with a light start of tiny bubbles, and a nutty finish.
Our meal began with a Demi Baguette from Small Victory served with PEI Butter topped with Maldon Salt. You can’t beat fresh and soft bread to start with a generous amount of butter, salted to enhance its flavour.
Our next bite was a surprise from the kitchen and a familiar sight. The Le Crocodile cracker shaped like a crocodile, sandwiching a thick slice of foie gras and a smear of strawberry confit. This was a two bite version of the whole foie gras appetizer that we ordered last time, but with additional sweetness from the extra berry compote. Whereas that full dish might have been a little on the heavy and dense side, this was just enough to leave your mouth happy and your belly wanting more.
For something fresh we took our server’s recommendation and ordered the Beet & Burrata Salad prepared with seasonal fruit, orange, and an aged white balsamic vinaigrette. I was half surprised to see only half the burrata sitting at the centre of the plate. However this was the perfect portion size and at $30 for the plate, a fair compensation. I did expect it to be more gummy and creamy, to the point that you could spread it though. However, it was more firm like mozzarella and only gently salted so we found it bland. Most of the flavour and character of the salad came from the candied beets that we would crush into shards. I just wished that there was more of it to go around.
The Bluefin Tuna Tartare was was kept chilled with white soy chilli, Asian pear, endive, cucumber, hibiscus granita, and tobiko. I have never had a mix like this before. All together it was interesting with a great balance of texture and flavours. Gentle and on the sweeter side with neither the tuna nor the granita, or the endive leaves coming out on top. For my tastes and coming out of the dishes before and considering the ones to come I would have liked something more punchy.
In comparison the Classic Steak Tartare gave me that kick I was looking for above. This is one of Le Crocodile’s most popular dishes. Exactly as expected, it needed the side of crispy bread as a base, it felt incomplete as just a meat paste. And the cream helped to pull it and the dry bread together.
Another French classic is the French Onion Soup with Gruyère cheese and levain. I am not a fan of the texture of onions, but do love their flavour and this soup was so dense and bold with onion in the best of ways. It was warming and tasty, but on the saltier side. It reminded me of fall.
The Duck Confit came recommended by our server. This was a leg of duck so tender that I was able to pull the bone straight out of its meaty casing. Served with seasonal vegetables, arugula, and shaved fennel. The duck was on the fattier side with a lovely golden brown skin. It paired well with the sweet peas and the crunchy bits of salty pancetta and crispy onion frisse. A fulsome plate, I just could have used some starch with it.
The Dungeness Crab Tagliolini is a great one if you are hungry. A heaping pile of thin strands, dressed in a lobster tomato vodka cream and topped with a lemon herb crumb. This was filling with the heavy cream and tangy tomato, yet light with the citrus fragranced fine crispy dust.
For a show order the Dover Sole. This is a fish deboned table side and finished with a pour over herb beurre blanc sauce. It is another lovely lighter option, made sumptuous with the butter sauce. I liked the green asparagus, but found the white bitter.
We were so full after this that we skipped on desserts and were happy with just some coffee and their complimentary tart and refreshing palate cleanser of pear sorbet.
As a lovely gesture, the staff surprised Roanna with a birthday Raspberry profiterole tart. A cream puff with whipped cream and a fruity compote filling.
And to end, as always their famed Thomas Haas Le Crocodile chocolate with a salted caramel centre.
Yet again, another delicious lunch at Le Crocodile, happy to be able to return and try more of their menu. At this rate we will be able to taste it all.
Le Crocodile by Chef Rob Feenie
100 – 909 Burrard St. Vancouver BC
604-669-4298
lecrocodilerestaurant.com
