I was invited to try Nightshade, Vancouver’s latest modern vegan/vegetarian restaurant, located in Yaletown.
We started our night off at their Popup bar at the back (Lightshade), so after a few rounds there to set the tone, we all travelled back to the front of the restaurant for our actual meal.
I was particularly excited to learn that the Executive Chef of Nightshade also works as the personal chef of the Prime Minister of Canada. The story goes that Justin Trudeau, tried his cuisine and liked it enough to offer him a job. A full time role cooking for him and his family. Our Executive Chef had no choice but to accept, and now finds himself residing in Ottawa, but flying to Vancouver every other weekend to tend ti Nightshade. If you can’t meet your Prime Minister, you can at least pretend to share a meal with him.
The restaurant is set up pretty standard: new simple furnishings, a couple of leafy green plants, and a few glitzy light features. The latter most help to highlight the fully stocked bar that runs down the length of the restaurant, and transitions into their open kitchen.
Our group of 5 was given a round booth by the window, ideal seating to allow for easier sharing. We would order majority of the menu to be able to try and review it all; and thought it best to share, in order to not stuff ourselves.
Despite our first two rounds of drinks at the back, we had to try more up front. A must, given how extensive their bar set up was, and the fact that they have a completely different drink menu. We would accompany our dishes with said cocktails, and sip on them throughout our meal. For organization sake, I will be referencing all the drinks we ordered here, before we get into the food. Notes on drink-ability will be provided for the cocktails I actually tried. The rest are a visual listing for your reference.
Interestingly, they have a few classic cocktails casked on tap, like the Aged Rum Manhattan. A Manhattan is typically two parts whiskey, one part sweet vermouth, and bitters; always stirred, and never shaken). This one was strong and booze forward.
I had their drink special of the night, Nightshade’s version of an espresso martini. It was exactly the coffee-forward, pick me up that I was looking for.
The Big Apple Sour features Applewood Smoked Woodford Reserve, Granny Smith Syrup, Simple, Lemon Juice, and a Red Wine Float. I liked the visual of the actual apple slice that crowned it.
We all agreed that the Last Tango in Paris looked very festive for the holiday season that had since passed. More chill than a fiery beverage, like the name suggests. Beefeater Gin, Lillet, Rosemary Syrup, Lime Juice, Champagne, and Cucumber Bitters.
They also have a couple of non alcoholic drink options as well, for those who want the mixed and shaken flavours of a cocktail, but none of its effects. The LHR Margarita features Free Spirit (non alcoholic) Tequila and pairs it with Lemon, Simple Syrup, Lemongrass, and Hibiscus.
Only two of us made it to the second round of drinks. I had the Spice Goa Up with Sorrel Infused Zubrowka, Ancho Reyes Chili, Cointreau, Soursop, Simple Syrup, Lemongrass, and House Vindaloo Spice. It wasn’t a savoury or rich in seasoning as the listing above read, but instead an easy going punch.
A Tokyo Affair is a pretty cocktail in white, topped with dried rose petals. A mix of Shin Yuzu Wine, Beefeater, Gekkeiken Sake, Yellow Chartreuse, Lemon Juice, Aquafaba, and Lime Leaf Bitters.
As for food, we began with one of the dressiest renditions of edamame I have ever had. Their Rayu Edamame is Steamed Edamame in a Sweet & Spicy Umami Sauce, topped with Togarashi, Green Onions, and a Lemon Wedge for self squirting. You get the sensation of pulling beans loose from pods that most people enjoy, coupled with a more substantial flavour profile, thanks to the thicker sauce that envelops each bean and your mouth. This makes for a nice bar snack as you wait on your meal to come.
Nightshade has a decent selection of sushi. Not just one roll, but 4 vegan rolls, each with its own profile and flavour; not just cucumber and avocado, like you get elsewhere.
The Mista Lava Lava was fun to say, even if I couldn’t figure out how it relates to the roll and its ingredient line up. Sake Marinated Yuba, Yam Tempura, Heart of Palm, and Gochujang Crema. As a roll, it was heavy on the rice, although I have been told that the restaurant is fairly receptive to change, so this has actually been paired down from what it originally was. Flavour-wise, because of the Yuba (fried tofu skin) it reminds you inari pockets, courtesy of its sweetness. However it does eat more savoury with the spice from the sauce.
The Nightshade Roll was a great representation of what the restaurant is about. It takes what is familiar and to it adds something new and different for levelled interest. In this case it was the twist of the Roasted Japanese Eggplant, paired with sushi roll veterans: Avocado, Jalapeno, and Unagi Sauce. The sauce didn’t over power, so you definitely were able to make out the char of the eggplant. And they were able to maintain its integrity so that it didn’t eat like a mass of mush. Although in hindsight, I could have use more salt and seasoning to best amplify the otherwise mild roll. Maybe a crunchy element like the tempura crunch below, or some fried taro chips?
The Shiso roll delivered on its name. There was no hiding the distinct Japanese herb amongst the Avocado, Pickled Cucumber, Sweet Potato, Chickpea, and Tomatillo Salsa Verde. Overall, this roll had a certain freshness to it, like what you get from drinking a freshly blended green juice.
The Fire Roll was my favourite because it gave me the biggest punch in flavour. House-Made Organic Kimchi, Shiitake Mushrooms, Avocado, Tempura Crunch, and Togarashi. It covered all the bases in texture and taste with crispy bits, sweet mushroomy portions, spicy segments, and a creamy sauce that brought it all together.
If you are only going to order one roll, this one is a hit with the customers. The Taro Roll is rice paper stuffed with a peppery taro filling, then fried crispy. It is served with and intended to be eaten with fragrant herbs, lettuce, and a palm sugar dipping sauce. You wrap the raw lettuce around your roll for freshness. Doing so last minute means you get the light crisp of greens, to help balance out the starchy roll. A sauce is necessary, but I would have personally preferred a sweet and spicy chilli or a peanut butter based one, instead.
If you are looking for something more filling, the Agnolotti is a nice zesty option. (stuffed pasta made from small pieces of flattened pasta dough, folded over a filling of roasted meat or vegetables). This is Turmeric Agnolotti with Blue Heron cheeses tossed in a sauce of fermented Chili Arrabiata and confit Tomatoes. To finish it is garnished with shaved Parmesan, Peppercorn, and Toasted Kasha. It eats like a ragu, thick and spicy with hearty chunks. The only thing I wanted was some bread or naan to help smear through the sauces and lick the plate clean with. We didn’t get it here, but did with the toast option below.
If you are only going to order one entree, the Truffle Tteokbokki gnocchi gets my vote. It is basically Korean style ride cakes prepared like gnocchi with Italian herbs. It is tossed with local wild Mushrooms and a Sunchoke puree, then garnished Parmesan cheese and Truffle. The texture is the best part. More springy and chewy than gnocchi, and it carries the seasoning well. This, I could have completed a whole serving of. And trust me, it tastes much better than it looks here.
In comparison with the above, the Grilled Mushrooms on Toast would have been better classified as a brunch option, as apposed to an entree item. Local Mushrooms cooked 3 ways served on house made Focaccia layered with Maggi butter and Mushroom pate, then garnished with Miso pickled Daikon. This was all levels of mushroom for a hearty handheld that filled the belly and satiated any mushroom cravings. The only hiccup is that I found it on the saltier side. Instead, it would have been nice to have the fragrant pate on the side, as a self selected flavour agent.
A lighter entree option is the Zucchini and Roasted Celeriac. Salt roasted Celeriac and Potato garnished with a ratatouille of Zucchini and Eggplant. Served with smoked Onions, Root Chips, and Coconut Tahini sauce. This ate like a warm and comforting stew with the texture of scallop potatoes and the surprise tang of pearl onions. This dish had depth, changing and evolving on your palate the more you ate.
For dessert the table fully enjoyed the Rosewater Apple Tart. Pink Lady Apples baked in a lightly sweetened pastry, and garnished with Hibiscus and spiced Milk Foam. It reminded me of an elevated McDonald’s apple pie, with its similar cinnamon and sugar fragrance. This was a stunning dish that helped us to end our meal on a sweeter note. Although, a few of us found the apple baked inconsistently. Some thin slices were left raw, whereas melted moist and gooey is the ideal.
The Half Baked Brownie could use a face lift. It isn’t the most appealing dessert with its Half-baked Espresso Whipped dough sprawling across the plate; and then topped haphazardly with Chocolate & Parsnip Chips, Parsnip Cremeaux, and Tonka and Hazelnut Ice cream. This definitely ate a lot better than it looked, and it wasn’t too sweet too. Enjoyable for those who love chocolate, while also being suitable for someone who wants a lighter end to their meal.
In summary, this is an ideal destination for those who want a dressier meal catered to those who are vegetarian and vegan. For those who want an entire menu to order off of, and not just the “vegetable section” or having to ask for substitutions. Food that is elevated and thoughtful with interesting flavour combination, not just a sandwich or fried vegetable sides. Where everything doesn’t all taste the same, because it isn’t painted with the same sauce brush. This menu and Nightshade definitely caters to that: a great restaurant for vegetarian and vegan finer dining.
Nightshade
1079 Mainland St, Vancouver, BC V6B 5P9
(604) 566-2955
nightshadeyvr.com
