Tonight we were at Granville Island’s Ellipsis, equal parts cafe and bar in one. They were hosting Victoria’s Wind Cries Mary for a one night only “Island Takeover”. A fact that was doubled seeing as their menu of 5 different cocktails to try featured Empress Gin, which is distilled and bottled in Victoria.
This was another event that was part of Vancouver’s Cocktail Week. This was an unticketed event, where walk-ins were welcome, but reservations were highly recommended to secure a table.
We came in for a later seating and were able to take in the amazing vaulted ceiling space at its night time peak. This is when their projected sun is at the reddest, dulling to shades of orange at its edges.
All their featured cocktails are named after nods to Victoria and their other bar/restaurant properties. The menu described these as “Empress 1908 Gin-forward cocktails that showcase their signature style, creativity, and coastal perspective”.
The Bastion Carajillo was Empress Oaken Gin, Amaro, Cold Brew, Banana Demerara, and Bitters. It reminded me of an espresso martini and served well as the pick-me-up option. It was thick and creamy on the lips with a chocolatey feel. I only could have used more banana for my tastes.
The Lo-Jo was a spicy margarita with Bitter Bianca, Dulce Vida Pineapple Tequila, Aloe Acid, and Pear Bitters. The scent of cilantro that you get on the nose first, changes the flavour that comes after. The chilli heat then gave the glass a savoury character with the candied pineapple to balance.
James Bay is Empress 1908 Elderflower Rose Gin, Fennel, and Orange Cordial. The was rosy in a neon magenta, but the colour was deceiving. This was a bolder faced drink with bold florals and spice that reminded me of licorice.
Sidney Harbour was not as expected with Empress 1908 Indigo Gin, Lemon, Pumpkin Seed Falernum, and Bitters. I read the ingredients warm like autumn with the pumpkin, but instead got a refreshing punch with lemonade-like summer citrus. Out of all the cocktails this evening, this was the easiest drinking.
The “Ask us about our secret” was “Waddington Lane”. An Empress Cucumber Lemon Gin, cucumber, mint, simple syrup, and citrus martini. And the name of their new, soon-to-open, third property on the Island. This is my kind of cocktail, minty fresh and not like tooth paste. Being cucumber forward made it a great cocktail to have with food. I especially loved the ball of cucumber that doubled as garnish and a last bite palate refresher.
For bites to nibble on as we drank, we ordered from Ellipsis’ regular food menu, focusing our attention on the newest additions to said menu.
The House Pickles are a rotation of seasonally driven and local farm vegetables. Today it was a collection of yellow in juicy beads, thin sheets, and round chips. Each smokey, some with hits of sandalwood, all so bold that it shocked and cleansed the palate; and has you reaching for your glass after.
The Lamb Tartare was unique with its numbing sensation from green flower pepper. This, alongside mustard, pecorino sardo, and scallion. You smelled the freshly grated parm as soon as it hit the table, and got more minced meat than the crostini needed as a base and an added crunch. This was another bold plate in the consideration of drinking and to encourage more of it.
The Oyster Sauce Bagna Cauda was a surprise hit and the table’s favourite dish of the night. Like cheese fondue, but served like a soup, with the texture and taste that reminded me of a lobster bisque. A thick and creamy dip to use with the collection of winter vegetables, bread, and potatoes that it came with. As fun to eat as it is tasty.
Not new, but an Ellipsis favourite of mine is their Pappardelle with their wide cut chestnut noodles, wild mushrooms, roasted chestnut, brown butter soy, and grana padano. Aside from the lustrous slurp of the noodles; I also enjoyed the soft, sweet and, cakey character the chestnut brought to this. I have never had the nut like this before.
And one of the more substantial new menu items us the Charcoal Grilled Striploin, sliced for easy eating and sharing. Tender, classically prepared steak, generously salted to best highlight the savouriness of the beef. Served with crispy potatoes and a javanese pepper jus. This was deliciously satisfying, I would recommend and order it again.
In closing this was a lovely way to discover a new bar and get reacquainted with one I am already a fan of.
Ellipsis
1540 W 2nd Ave #205, Vancouver, BC V6J 1H2
ellipsis.ca
