On this Wine Wednesday we were learning about Valpolicella wines, by jumping over the introduction and going straight into their Masterclass.
This year I have dedicated myself to being more discerning about what goes into my glass. I find that getting a crash course in one producer or one geographical area is the best way to do it. And today it was the latter.
As per Wikipedia “Valpolicella is a viticultural zone of the province of Verona, Italy, east of Lake Garda. The hilly agricultural and and marble-quarrying region of small holdings north of the Adige is famous for wine production. Valpolicella ranks just after Chianti in total Italian Denominazione di Origine Controllata (DOC) wine production”.
Throughout our 2 hour class we would discover more about Valpolicella through a presentation and tasting of 11 different bottles covering 5 different types of wines. This all started with the wine producing area, where we really got to learn the value and importance that the land plays on the outcome of said wine. Acknowledging that the wines there back in the day is quite different from what they are today. This is considering colder climates and the former use of older barrels. Thus making the wine thinner and and lower in alcohol overall. And that was certainly not what we were having today. More on that during the tasting.
We would fast forward through history as it advanced in the 1990’s with cleaner processes put into place. This era also marked when reds came back in style.
Currently there are 2251 grape growers, 6 cooperatives, and 344 bottlers in Valpolicella. With a total production of 73.6 million bottles in 2031. 47% of them being the Valpolicella Ripasso, 27% being Valpolicella DOC, and Amarone and Recioto Dell V.LLA DOCG covering 26%.
The Valpolicella wine region as a whole is 75% on slopes. And has influences taken from Lake Garda, which provides a Mediterranean-like micro climate with its cooler waters. Whereas temperatures and the vineyards get hotter the further from it you travel. Thus making the wine in the area and the yield of grapes fairly diverse. That coupled with olives and cherries from historical agriculture; and the presence of lime, stone, volcanic sediments, and fossil rich deposits in the ground all affect what goes into the bottle.
97% of wines in Valpolicella are are made from indigenous varieties of grapes. The top 4 used even has minimum and maximum requirements, in order to meet the “Valpolicella” classification. They are as follows.
Corvina grapes have a 45% min and 95% max in the blend. This grape variety is known as the back bone of wines offering structure, while adding some softness thanks to its aromas. Its medium berry, blackish blue skin lends itself to the colour of the finished product. Its high skin to pulp ratio makes it good for withering and drying. It has a fruiter aroma with notes of bergamot and orange blossom. Once aged it has a balsamic essence to it, which is a common scent that makes it into the wines it is in.
The Corvinone grape is a clone or spoof of the Corvina above, and it itself has 9 clones. Its requirement of the Valpolicella designation is a blend of 45-95%. From it you get notes of black cherry and spice. The grape adds aroma, complexity, and structure to any wine.
The third our of the top 4 grapes used in Valpolicella wines is the Rondinella. It has a 5-30% blend rate. It is a hearty grape that is the best against rot, disease, and the weather; and as a result has 6 clones. It offers a salty and savoury quality to the wine, know as “Sapidity” (I learned a new word here). The grape has good vigour and is drought resistant. It offers aromas of black and red berries.
And lastly we have the Molinara with a 0-10% necessary blend. It is pale in colour, but still offers plenty of tannis, aromas, and loads of freshness. You see it less in Valpolicella wines because the trend is to have deep red wines and this grape variety lacks the hue. When aging it helps to add balsamic characters into the mix.
Now that we know about the grapes, we moved on to learn about the 1 blend, the 4 wines they produce, and 4 styles of Valpolicella wines it comes in. Valpolicella DOC a light bodied wine, Valpolicella Ripasso DOC a medium bodied wine, Amarone Della Valpolicella DOCG a full bodied wine, and the Recioto Della Valpolicella DOCG which is a sweet wine.
Valpolicella DOC is a fine youthful ruby red wine with a winy light perfume and hints of cherry and rose on the nose. On the palate it is fresh, dry, and rather soft, while being pleasantly lively. Fondly referred to as “valpo” in the room, as an un-oaked, juicy and fresh, approachable wine.
The Valpolicella “superiore” is made from select grapes grown in the best locations. Aged for a minimum of one year, thus gaining its ruby red colour with garnet shades. On the nose it is ethereal with hints of ripe cherry and oak. Its flavour is fine, harmonious, dry, and velvety. It is also known for its higher alcohol content. This and its stronger taste makes it a good pairing with second courses, especially red meat and medium seasoned cheeses.
Amarone Della Valpolicella DOCG is made out of dry grapes, left in fruit drying lists for 100-120 days. During this drying process the sugar content increases in the grape. It has one of the highest aging potential amongst Italian wines. The wine’s colour is an intense garnet red. Its bouquet has dried fruit, tobacco, and spice notes. It also has a high alcohol content and certain softness resulting from the noble moulds that develop during the drying process. Its flavour is dry, while being full bodied, warm, and strong. This one pairs well with meat, game, and matured cheeses; but also can be appreciated as a pleasant “meditation wine”.
The Valpolicella Ripasso DOC is made from the re-fermentation of basic Valpolicella wines and residual Amarone for about 15-20 days. This results in a heavier and rounder structure, adding more longevity to the wine. It also has one of the highest alcohol content out of all the Valpolicella wine. It is ruby red in colour with garnet shades. With an aroma of red fruits on the nose, and notes of ripe cherry and oak. The palate is fine, harmonious, dry, and velvety. The suggested pairing for this one was winter mains: courses with the cold cuts and medium seasoned cheeses.
And the Recioto Della Valpolicella DOCG is made out of dry grapes left in fruit drying lofts for 100-120 days. Fermentation is stopped to preserve the wine’s typical structure and sweetness. It has an intense ruby red colour, which is dark and sometimes impenetrable. It is strong with dry fruit and a jammy black cherry scent. The wine developes in a velvety flavour with a strong structure and good acidity. This you pair with desserts and a fine cheese plate.
From here we finally got to try the individual tasters that would fall into either of the categories above for grapes used and finished product. The following is the wine we actually got to try, along with my tasting notes.
Corte Figaretto, Valpolicella DOC Superiorie 2019 with Corvina, Rondinella, Milinara, and Oselta grapes. This one was easy to drink even with its oaked age, an approachable wine at 14.5% alcohol content. And the bottles only go higher from here. Its high acidity offers tang and plenty of tannis, that had me puckering. I got citrus on the onset with more nuance and layers to sort through with each sip to come.
The Cantina Riondo, Amarone Della Valpolicella DOCG 2019 is a blend of Corvina, Corvinone, Rondinella, and other smaller grape varieties. The room found that it had a dark chocolate in the finish, I got fuller bodied strawberries. At 15% the tasters were getting strong, but smoother
Cantine Di Verona SCA, Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG 2018. This was juicy and bright with Corvina, Veronese, Corvinone, and Rondinella grapes. 15.5% alcohol content. I got oak on the nose with a cherry and tomato fresh tang and clean finish.
Monte Zovo, Famiglia Cottini; Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG 2018. Corvina, Corvinone, and Rondinella grapes. 16% alcohol content. This was organic wine aged at great lengths in various barrels and oaks for its layered notes that included orchard fruits. This was one of my favourite tastes. My classmate found it watered down, I found it crushable.
Ilatium Morini, Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG 2018 is at a 16.5% alcohol content; containing Corvina/Corvinone, Rondinella, Croatina and Oseleta and other smaller grape varieties. This winery is known for being powered by renewable thermal energy from sun. And thanks to its aging in French and American barrels you get a nice pepperiness at the back of the throat.
Bolla, Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG Classico Riserva 2017. The grapes are Corvina and Corvinone with Rondinella. With the Rondinella grapes yielding from vines over 50 years old. This wine is traditional in style and taste, playing with different vessels and aging; and even leaving 30% of the grapes not de-stemmed.
After we cleared our drinking placemats of the 6 glasses originally set before us, there was a short intermission where we were topped off with the remaining 5. I just wish we were given a fresh glass for each, to be able to enjoy the wine as intended and for the best experience; especially considering the price tag on many of these.
Massimago, Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG 2017. Its grape blend includes Corvina, Corvinone, and Rondinella. I found the wine herbal and spicy.
Corteforte, Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG 2015 also utilizes Corvina, Corvinone, and Rondinella. This organic and family own vineyard has their wine aging in a steel tank for 2 years, then French oak for 30 months, before being bottled for 15 months. It was noted that they apply sharp cuts on their grapes to hack off what they deemed unnecessary, in order to strengthen the vines. The result, a lush and peppery bouquet.
Sartori Di Verona, Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG Riserva 2015. This winery is notable for incorporating the statue of Verona it into its trademark. Corvina Veronese, Corvinone, and Rondinella grapes help make up this 15.5% alcohol content. From the vineyard’s primarily chalky soil the wine inherits a unique and funky flavour for a complex and weighty wine with freshness of green peppercorn.
Valentina Cubi, Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG 2013. Grapes include Corvina, Corvinone, and Rondinella. This one was floral on the nose with a sweeter honey finish; and one of my favourite wines of the day. This one I found highly enjoyable to sip and savour.
Bertani, Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG 2012. It was nice to be able to try older vintages as we went along, with this being the oldest aged at 11 years. Blended with Corvina Veronese and Rondinella you get berry on the nose and strawberry on the palate, with a tangy and dry finish.
Although I did my best to cover it all, there is so much more to learn about Valpolicella wines than what we reviewed in this Masterclass. So much so that they have a 3 day certification courses that highly specializes in Valpolicella wines and their territori for press, trade, and wine educators. This was created with the goal to host “Valpolicella wine specialists”. So far there are 35 from 16 countries. So for those interested there is something to look in to.
From here the class dispelled and began slowly filtering into the second banquet hall. Within guests were invited to a more informal tasting, where vendors stood behind booths to sample a more extensive collection of their wines.
This was a relax setting with well spaced out tables and a collection of small bites at the centre of it all. Assorted cheeses and honey, crispy crackers and fresh sliced fruit. You approached each producer, asking questions and trying that which caught your eye.
In conclusion, I am a fan of Northern Italian wine and their bold reds and higher alcohol content.
