Once an upon a time I use to work for Tourism Richmond as a freelance tour guide and host of sorts. I would meet and receive local and international media representatives and tour them around Richmond, be it the Richmond Night Market or their Dumpling Tour. This role led me to discovering some of the best spots for all types of dumplings, as recommend by the city. And to this day I still default to a number of the same restaurants when recommending and suggesting places to dine.
Today the goal was dim sum and I wanted to impress my guest, so made a reservation at Empire Seafood, in the heart of Richmond by No. 3 Road. I use to bring media guests here for their classic steamed dumplings and would do the same today, with this most recent visit. And I am happy to inform the food is just as good as I remembered it to be.
However, starting the meal was a challenge. I was on time and gave my name to the host at the front podium, however my reservation was not in their book. Thankfully it was a weekday, they were less busy and found a table for two shortly after. In order to secure this, I would have to sit and claim said table; and this was a highly coveted window seat. What I didn’t know was that my guest didn’t have his phone on him and was unable to reply to my status updates, for where I was and where I will be. And sadly Chinese restaurant service, or lack there of did not help. We were both left waiting, he in the front foyer, and me at the table. Thankfully in the end he realized no one was going to ask him if he needed assistance and he walked into the restaurant to discover me. I was actually surprised that the restaurant management let me sit and wait in peace, with out questioning where the rest of my party was. This is because you don’t typically get seated, unless everyone is present. And after 30 minutes of delay, we were finally ready to order.
I took the lead on ordering so got everything that I usually do, plus a few surprise plates in hopes of stumping my guest, who isn’t Chinese born; but I didn’t realize lived longer in Asian than myself. Specifically Hong Kong for over 10 years. Nonetheless he tried and liked everything.
The classic Har Gow, shrimp dumpling is always a good neutral starting point. A lumpy shrimp ball stuffed into a chewy wrapper.
And its typical companion: Siu Mai with Black Truffle. The umami flavour of the truffle paste and oil helps to perk up and add levels to the condensed pork bundle.
This would be my first time trying their Xiao Long Bao and it was pretty good. A tad deflated but what little soup that was still in the thick dumpling shell, held together. Tastiest with a dip in vinegar for tangy interest. Although I could have used more filling for a meatier bite.
The Steamed Spare Ribs are a must for me. Fatty and gummy, bite sized morsels of pork. Steamed tender, they come of the bone with ease. And the black bean sauce is the perfect salty yet neutral flavour to have you coming back for more.
A curve ball for my guest was the Steamed Beef Stomach and Tendon with Chuhou Sauce. This one you order for the crunchy chewy intestine and gelatinous cartilage-like tendon. The sauce, a wonderfully a thick and sweet coating. He only dared to eat one piece.
I am not a fan of wilted greens, so our vegetable dish was Pan Seared Egg Plant with Shrimp Paste. This is another must order for me. Like the shrimp dumpling above, but with the more fibrous eggplant as its shell instead.
And to ensure neither of us left hungry, I did the Chinese thing and ordered a carb dish. As it was brunching hour this was their Century Egg and Salted Pork Congee with Dried Oyster. So flavourful as is, you didn’t need a main to go with what would be considered a side. I didn’t even look to soy sauce. Just as is with piece of jelly-like egg and bits of pork for textural interest. This was probably my favourite item of this meal and the most comforting.
My guest has had Steamed Rice Rolls before but not ones with a Chinese Donut filling and a Dried Shredded Pork topping. A mix of all textures and taste with a one of a kind dip combination of salty hoisin sauce and sweet peanut butter. Best eaten cold before the fried bread becomes soggy from the dense rice flour sheet surrounding it.
And for dessert I tried to challenge my guest with Deep Fried Durian Dessert Balls, but instead he loved them and ate three out of the four. These were fried glutinous balls filled with the pungent flavour of durian. A creamy centre that reminded me of the fruit, as is. One bite had us reliving the flavour in burps for the hours to follow.
In short, I have yet to be disappointed by Empire Seafood and have now made my dim sum companion a fan of them as well.
Empire Seafood Restaurant
5951 No. 3 Rd Unit 200, Richmond, BC V6X 2E3
(604) 249-0080
empirerestaurant.ca
