This one is a new one for me. A Korean restaurant serving Japanese-style Kaiseki. As per Wikipedia “Kaiseki” is “a traditional multi-course Japanese dinner. The term also refers to the collection of skills and techniques that allow the preparation of such meals”.
The one at Tekkaba is inspired by such set meals popularized in Kyoto, although be warned it is not authentic so do not come in with that expectation. Instead, approach this with an open mind and you will be delighted at the unique experience before you.
Having recently tried their new sister restaurant that just recently opened on West Broadway, I thought I knew what to expect at Tekkaba in Gastown. However, I would be wrong. This was an elevated dining experience with top notch service and an entertainment element mingled in.
Similar to their new concept, this restaurant too focuses on Japanese cuisine made with Korean influences. Although, here, the modern approaches and literal updates to classics are more bespoke with perfect drink pairings to help elevate course by course, for 12 modest sized bites and sips.
The restaurant is quintessential Gastown with a brick framework, given the owner’s touches with a collection of star shaped light fixtures, showcases of faberge eggs, and a full sized piano. They all really set the tone for a more refined night out.
We would begin with both their wine pairing and sake pairing options, and share both across dinner. Unlike traditional pairings that go glass after glass, you are encouraged to partner drinks with dishes bouncing back and forth from sparking to red, then white and back to sparkling, as courses dictate. Therefore, it is advised to reserved some in glass to enjoy as you go.
The wine pairing included a sweeter Canadian sparkling made champagne style with apple on the tongue and bubbles on the nose. The Chardonnay was refreshing, but neutral, making it a great pairing for the multiple raw fish courses. And the bolder Pinot Noir ideal for heavier and richer options such as the beef tartare and truffle pasta.
As for the sake flight, each shot was over poured with enough to fill a dish underneath the shot glass. The intention is you finish one and have enough pooled under it for another, basically equating to 2 shots.
The plum sake was a sweet start to open up the appetite as an aperitif. Smooth and fun, bright and bubbly it stood on its own. The dry sake did well with the lighter fish, not overpowering their natural flavour, yet offering itself as a nice neutral accompaniment. And the premium sake went well with everything in between. More fragrant than the dry, with a more distinct roasted rice flavour.
I liked how the drinks above and each course presented to come came with an explanation on how best to enjoy it, as recommended by the architects of the menu. We felt very pampered by the process, as the food was prompt, coming out as soon as you finish a plate. You dictate the speed so if you want to elongate your meal make sure to leave something behind. Although the staff are extremely attentive and it is a timed seating with the dessert course corresponding to the musical component that concludes the dinner. More on that later.
Each course is called a “step”, the first was a Chawanmushi. Steamed egg dressed in Ichiban sauce and topped with nuts. This was a warm and comforting, homey start. The light golden soy comes through for salt and flavour. The green onion offers a fresh element, and the gently roasted nuts provides a contrasting crunch to the pudding like egg.
Step 2 was a Beef Tartar prepared with fresh AAA+ beef tenderloin served with an organic spring salad mix and a rice paper chip; all drizzled over with a sweet balsamic vinegar. There was a little too much going on to be considered as refined as classic beef tartar is known to be. Heavy with the spices and the drizzle, you miss most of the nuance from the raw beef. Sadly there was only one chip available as a base. Therefore this are more like a salad, with the greens being necessary as a pause in between bites.
Step 3 was a deep fried Sweet Prawn Tempura served with their Densashi sauce for dipping. The minimal amount of sauce is pooled at the bottom of the bowl in order to keep the whole shrimp cut in half, as crispy as possible. You could taste the quality of the seafood being used. Head and tail were meaty morsels we finished in one bite. So tasty, I even shot the sauce back.
Our fourth Step was the Asari Soup, a traditional Japanese style clam soup with garlic and green onion. This was a lovely warm up and break from fried food above to the clean simplicity of raw fish below. It helped to refresh the palate and leave it blank. The soup drank clean, you could taste the quality clam meat, but not smell it. It had a lovely refinement, paired well with the premium sake that drank as clean to match.
Step 5 was the Sashimi course. Three pieces: Hamachi, Bluefin Tuna, and Madai. Presented with sides of ginger garlic, macha salt, and fresh wasabi. These were such delicate flavours from quality cuts. Perfectly sliced portions for the ideal one bite. And after you eat the fish you can wash your mouth with the leaves and flowers doubling as garnish. This we liked with the Chardonnay with its light and neutral body that does not over power the equally gentle raw fish. The dry sale was also a nice bedmate as well.
Our raw fish course was followed by more raw fish, but this time over rice for Step 6. Once again three pieces that included Madai, Hirame, and Saba. It would have been nice to have a different type of fish instead of Madai twice, although with the rice and the different toppings of shiso pesto, green onion and ginger, and lemon jus they were fairly different from the straightforward sashimi above. The standout was the shiso pesto with asparagus and avocado. This was delightful with its peppery freshness, it added a new level. Worried about the natural tendency for mackerel to be salty, I was pleasantly surprised by how even tempered it was here.
Step 7 had us moving more into the cooked food territory with three pieces of Aburi Nigiri. Hotate, Jumbo Prawn, and Baby Squid with egg yolk, green onion, and a yuzu jus. The scallop was sweeter with its glaze. The meaty prawn was best taken in one bite, as it was too fibrous to gnaw in half. And the squid was my favourite for its amazing textured chew, its skin gooey with the egg wash and zesty with lemon scent and taste.
We then when back to raw fish, but this time a lot more lush with 3 premium slices, each topped with a luxury Ingredient. Jutoro & Caviar, Salmon & Ikura, and Hamachi & Black Truffle. Each lusciously fatty and elegant in the mouth. The first two combinations were familiar, the truffle was the wild card. Different that it caused me to pause. The truffle worked well with the freshness of the buttery white fish, but definitely took away from the seafood.
Step 9 was a Tako Maki. Marinated ankimo (a Japanese dish made with monkfish liver, where the liver is rubbed with salt, then rinsed with sake) topped with soy and tobiko, served over sushi rice in a piece of seaweed folded to resemble a taco shell. Meant to be taken in one bite, this was an interesting one with the pate-like fish spread taking centre stage. The rice absorbed most of the flavour and the roasted seaweed shielded from the more dominant one tone.
Here, the trays that were used as chargers to set the table, were removed and we were presented with Step 10. Caviar Truffle Uni Pasta. Linguine noodles dressed in a thick whipping cream sauce topped sparingly with caviar, black truffle, and uni. The opulence of this pasta was well received where the highlight was the uni, transforming this dish into something all its own. The pasta was perfectly boiled and having noodles as the last savoury course ensured we would be leaving full. The dish was perfect, the only thing I would have liked was more uni and caviar, given their mention in the dish’s name.
Twenty minutes to dessert the staff came around warning all the guests that the doors will be locked to ensure our featured live performer and her presentation will not be disturbed. Tonight we would be treated to a special live mini concert performed by a Korean pianist (flown in from Korea). As the lights went dim, she played lovely, as guests winded down, enjoying dessert as a sweet end. Here, restaurant management also took the time to acknowledge birthdays and anniversaries, before the entire fully seated restaurant.
The music offered a nice break, helping you settle from a faster pace and heavier meal before. The order of everything was very intelligent and well thought out. Courses became gradually heavier and we were well fed, but did not feel heavy or hated ourselves for eating so much.
The dessert finisher was a traditional Korean rice snack and fermented rice drink. I appreciated the authenticity, but found the dessert fell short after such an extravagant meal and final course. The Korean puffed Rice Krispie square had a sweet filling of sesame and ginger, melded together with the texture of nougat that got stuck in your teeth. It ate like soft styrofoam that melts in your mouth. Whereas the tangy rice drink helped to add moisture in between the dry bite, and slightly sweet taste made it a pleasant palate refresher. Not an ideal end to such a wonderful meal.
We finished each plate (minus dessert) clean. Honestly, I would have been upset with myself if I left anything on the table, the food was just so darn good. This was an amazing and one of a kind fusion dine-in experience that I can comfortably recommend. Even on our way out, they impressed. The owner Tom was at the door to greet you when you entered, and when exiting he made sure to shake your hand and say goodbye. He did this for each and every guest. It felt personal, despite the whole restaurant being full.
Tekkaba
68 E Cordova St, Vancouver, BC V6A 4G8
(604) 442-7552
tekkaba.ca
